Open Road

Hi Guys

I'm in the beginning stages of my winter project and wanted to check a few things. The project is a R&R on the complete suspension, torque tube, wheel bearings, tranny reseal, X-pipe, and Hans shifter. I'm planning on dropping everything from the clutch back to R&R, clean, soda blast and powder coat where needed.

I already have the RWBs out. (the grease had dried out and they were disgusting looking. Smelled like gear oil.) I'm not putting the new bearings in yet, because the hub carrier and pretty much everything attached to it needs some love.

Wanted to check order of operations with you guys given all the above. Realized today I've already eliminated an easy way to get to the rear pinch bolt on the torque tube by removing the hubs. But i think I can just put it in gear and spin the engine to get the rear bolt to line up with the access port.

Order of Operation for removal (major steps):
1. Remove exhaust (done)
2. Remove rear axles (done)
3. Remove clutch (WSM 30-6b to 6c)
4. Remove shift lever
5. Remove tranny (WSM 34-5 to 34-7) and torque tube (WSM 39-61) together

Questions
1. Is my order of operation, correct?
2. Are there any steps I should take ahead of time before moving to the next major disassembly step to make life easier?
3. Per Q2, seems like I should remove the rear pinch bolt now before removing clutch, correct?

A few pics to make this more interesting. Going to try some induction heat tomorrow to try and get the inner race off the hub shaft.

Easiest answer to your question is: follow the WSM procedure for transaxle/TT assembly removal.

It describes the steps in order.

For reassembly, for every suspension bolt/nut that goes through a bushing (e.g. dog bones, shock pins, links, etc.) make them "wrist tight" when you assemble. Only torque them to specification once they are loaded with the weight of the car.

How do you do that? 4-post. Hub stands on grease plates. Or some other creative way.

worf wrote: ↑Fri Jan 02, 2026 8:47 pm For reassembly, for every suspension bolt/nut that goes through a bushing (e.g. dog bones, shock pins, links, etc.) make them "wrist tight" when you assemble. Only torque them to specification once they are loaded with the weight of the car.

How do you do that? 4-post. Hub stands on grease plates. Or some other creative way.

Good to know and so much FUN. Creative way likely to be either buying some wheel cribs from Race Ramp ($$$) or building some out of 2x4s.

Question on the WSM. There is a note on 30-6c (note 1) that says "The straight pins for the TDC sensor must point downward to permit removal of the complete clutch (risk of damage).

Reading on TOS the consensus was this was a diagnostic sensor that isn't used (maybe never was). Correct? So I can safely ignore this note as I drop the clutch?

JBT3 wrote: ↑Sat Jan 03, 2026 1:18 pm Question on the WSM. There is a note on 30-6c (note 1) that says "The straight pins for the TDC sensor must point downward to permit removal of the complete clutch (risk of damage).

Reading on TOS the consensus was this was a diagnostic sensor that isn't used (maybe never was). Correct? So I can safely ignore this note as I drop the clutch?

yes.

JBT3 wrote: ↑Sat Jan 03, 2026 1:10 pm Good to know and so much FUN. Creative way likely to be either buying some wheel cribs from Race Ramp ($$$) or building some out of 2x4s.

The wheels will want to move outwards as the suspension compresses. Thus you need slip plates of some sort. Two pieces of plexiglass with lithium grease between them will work fine.

Worked on the clutch a bit more, but stuck on the starter bolts. F’ers might as well be welded on. Heat and a beefy impact did nothing. Going to try cutting a grove in the side and whacking it with a chisel to hopefully loosen it up.

Thoughts on the pics? Can I reuse the pressure plate? Had zero clutch issues so all was functional, just obviously not pretty.

JBT3 wrote: ↑Sun Jan 04, 2026 9:38 pm Worked on the clutch a bit more, but stuck on the starter bolts. F’ers might as well be welded on. Heat and a beefy impact did nothing. Going to try cutting a grove in the side and whacking it with a chisel to hopefully loosen it up.

I have a cut-down 8mm L-key upon which I can slip a 3-foot cheater if required. So far, has never failed me.

JBT3 wrote: ↑Sun Jan 04, 2026 9:38 pm Thoughts on the pics? Can I reuse the pressure plate? Had zero clutch issues so all was functional, just obviously not pretty.

No pics of the "business side" of the PP up there.

It's the friction surface of the PP that matters for the most part. Sure, the springs can get tired after 30 years.

All the stock parts will have some surface rust: not a problem.

I hope you are following the WSM for clutch removal: the little hand-made tools are not optional unless your friction disc is down to the rivets.

Got the starter out - whew! Got the pinch bolts out and clamp slide towards rear / separation with the intermediate shaft.

I have the little L brackets made to slide into the gaps to relieve pressure. I understand the big pivot arm should go towards the rear to open up that gap but not sure where to put my crow bar for leverage. I rear under the guide tube but it’s not making sense to me. Anyone got a pic?

Never mind. Got it and hopefully didn’t screw up the pressure plate.

My L brackets were too long and hit the bolt on the starter housing. Fun!

JBT3 wrote: ↑Sun Jan 11, 2026 12:17 pm I understand the big pivot arm should go towards the rear to open up that gap but not sure where to put my crow bar for leverage. I rear under the guide tube but it’s not making sense to me. Anyone got a pic?

JBT3 wrote: ↑Sun Jan 11, 2026 2:13 pm My L brackets were too long and hit the bolt on the starter housing. Fun!

The WSM doesn't tell you the max/mins. The length in the WSM is a max length. The thickness is +/- 1 RCH.

Today has been comical. So I have everything out and the clutch won’t drop. I can take the pivot arm off the ball cup and spin the pressure plate independently of the flywheel so it’s not a locating pin. I’m stumped.

Dawned on me it had to be the intermediate shaft and it was. Success!!!!

JBT3 wrote: ↑Sun Jan 11, 2026 5:05 pm Today has been comical. So I have everything out and the clutch won’t drop. I can take the pivot arm off the ball cup and spin the pressure plate independently of the flywheel so it’s not a locating pin. I’m stumped.

Before you unbolted the PP, did you unbolt the pinch clamp, slide it back, and then made sure the intermediate shaft will move back and forth?

It is common for the nose of the i-shaft to be rusted to the inner race of the pilot bearing.

If you did not do that, stick 3 bolts back into the PP and tighten them a couple of turns, then see if you can move the i-shaft back and forth.

Seriously: the bolts. The clutch assembly will seriously fucking hurt when it does a surprise drop on your head.

Think I responded while you were typing. You nailed it - it was the intermediate shaft. When I pushed the guide tube towards the PP, I moved the inter. shaft. Thanks for the help.

This was my first ever clutch! Actually pretty easy now that I know the process, but I was intimidated at the start.




Clutch thickness is measuring 9.4mm on avg. which I think is well within spec but I don’t like the glazing. Thoughts?

JBT3 wrote: ↑Sun Jan 11, 2026 7:07 pm Clutch thickness is measuring 9.4mm on avg. which I think is well within spec but I don’t like the glazing. Thoughts?

IIRC that's about half-worn (but I'm not going to bet on it (and I'm not going to look a 'the books' ATM.))

In my book, if the clutch hasn't been out in a while and I don't want to mess with it again for a long time, I always replace:
- friction disc
- pilot bearing
- ball cup bushing
- throw out bearing(*)

The other issue - something very hard to pickup in pictures - is if the flywheel and PP surfaces have been work-hardened from slipping. You'll see it as refractory blue spots.

If you have stock horsepower it may not matter too much with a new friction disc.

(*) Throw out bearing replacement is tricky because the last available versions were GTS spec and require replacing the release arm and guide tube (or else: boom!) However, now that Mark Anderson is getting them rebuilt, it may be the case that you can get either an S4/GT or GTS bearing. However, to know which one you need, you first have to identify which arm and tube you have. If your clutch has ever been done, it may have been upgraded to GTS spec already.

The Service Tech Info books for 92 or 93 show details IIRC and so do various threads on The Other Forum.

If you can't find references that allow you to figure it out let me know.