[Streetsnake]

While removing everything from the engine bay on my ‘78, I noticed that the TSZ’s boot was ripped and appeared a very small amount of “blueish” corrosion was evident on one of the male prongs. I opened the unit up expecting to find additional corrosion but there was non. My ‘78 aka Felix will not be ready for power/engine testing for awhile but want to address any possible that may cause issues. Being completely illiterate when it comes to electrical, I’m sure there are a few “local” experts that may be able to help. Let me know what you guys see below that might be an issue. Appreciate the help.

[h2pmr]

that male prong looks quite pitted with corrosion all over it compared to the other ones, and when plugging it back in might not go back in exactly the same position, you can see where the female prongs have been on the male prong for the last x number of years
personally i would brush on some Deoxit then very gently scrape the prong with a small screwdriver until it was nice and shiny.
you would also need to take a good look at the female connector that goes onto it.
i would make sure the female prongs are nice and tight together and are free from corrosion, it should look the same colour as all the other female connectors in the plug.
cheers
Phil

[Streetsnake]

that male prong looks quite pitted with corrosion all over it compared to the other ones, and when plugging it back in might not go back in exactly the same position, you can see where the female prongs have been on the male prong for the last x number of years
personally i would brush on some Deoxit then very gently scrape the prong with a small screwdriver until it was nice and shiny.
you would also need to take a good look at the female connector that goes onto it.
i would make sure the female prongs are nice and tight together and are free from corrosion, it should look the same colour as all the other female connectors in the plug.
cheers
Phil

Thanks Phil. Yes, I’ll be sure to clean up both male and female connections. I don’t know what boards should look like, but it looks okay to my unknowing eyes??

[worf]

There are no obvious issues with that side of the board.

The back side of that PCB, on which you will be able to see the traces, is another thing to eyeball. If it’s easy to remove from the housing.

One thing to note is that all the resistors and capacitors soldered to the PCB are nearing the ends of their design lifetimes. When they die, they can short and burn traces on the PCB.

If it was me, and I was trying to make this 928 go for another 10 or 20 years, I’d contact Rich at https://electronikrepair.com/ and see if he’s able to do a prophylactic rebuild.

[Streetsnake]

There are no obvious issues with that side of the board.

The back side of that PCB, on which you will be able to see the traces, is another thing to eyeball. If it’s easy to remove from the housing.

One thing to note is that all the resistors and capacitors soldered to the PCB are nearing the ends of their design lifetimes. When they die, they can short and burn traces on the PCB.

If it was me, and I was trying to make this 928 go for another 10 or 20 years, I’d contact Rich at https://electronikrepair.com/ and see if he’s able to do a prophylactic rebuild.

Just sent an email. Thx

[Rich928]

From the photo (thank you) I can see that the part of the board that would be resoldered for refurbishment is on the bottom side. To access the bottom, removing the board could break it (not designed for easy disassembly). The transistors are also VERY OLD and are no longer available. So I would suggest just leaving the modules as-is if they’re working. I’m pretty sure there is a good supply of used working modules (928 International, for example) so replacement shouldn’t be difficult if needed.

If we reach a point where used part availability becomes an issue, I could further study repair but that will take time as finding modern replacement parts for NOL items is time consuming and difficult.

Rich @ Electronik Repair