[BFlanagan98]

Hi friends,

Does anyone still offer larger sway bars for the 928? Larger than the S4 stuff? I know DEVEK and 928MS both had them, but both firms are now out of business. Who else offers them?

Or, do any of you have any you would be willing to part with?

Thanks!
Brian Flanagan
85 928S 5-speed Slicktop "The Redhead"
88 928S4 automatic "The Brunette"

[maddog2020]

the bolt is a m12 so it will need to be a 1/2 bore heim joint as the 3/4 heim joint head will be too large to fit. I spoke to speedway guys earlier on the phone. the bar measurements are not form bore to bore but the length of the center bar without the heim joints. they recommend 4 inch shorter than the bore to bore distance. they said 3" would work but may not have much adjustment. so a 30" bar would do it but it would need 1/2-20 threads

[Crumpler]

Hey Brian,

The short answer is I don’t believe anyone is making aftermarket 928 sway bars for performance purposes.

Barring the occasional used units that show up in the marketplace, there just isn’t an outlet that I’m aware of.

What are your goals? Track or aggressive street, etc.

There are harder aftermarket bushings through Powerflex, if you want minimal hassle.

[worf]

What are your goals?

This -^

[maddog2020]

there are also the Ott-Hans drop links that are very easy to install and adjust

[BFlanagan98]

What not to do:

Make a post asking a question and then forget to go back and check for replies. Lol.

Car is a fun weekend dragon slayer/HPDE tool (I instruct for a few groups)/SCCA Time Trials competitor in "Sport" (i.e. nearly stock) class. I can't go crazy with KW V3's or competition-level coil overs, super stiff springs or any of that, so trying to get some roll control via larger bars possibly.

Are the Ott-links still in production? Seems like an interesting approach!

Thanks for advice, and promise to check back in regularly!

-Brian

[Crumpler]

Cool.

Mines a HPDE vehicle as well.
The best thing I found, after trial and error, is too add a molybar to the front end, running between the lower control arms.
Notable improvement.

[BFlanagan98]

Got a link to one of those? Or who/where would I search?

[worf]

@hans14914 got any drop links left?

[BFlanagan98]

I'm in for a set as well if you do!

[Crumpler]

This is an example of:
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/ ... tkEALw_wcB

I think I bought a generic one through JEGS, but can’t remember.
I put it on thinking “ok it can’t hurt”, but was almost confused first turn how different the car handled. ;)

[worf]

re: "Porsche 928 Motorsports Front Lower Chassis Brace"

Two things:

928 Motorsports was sold three-ish years ago. Pelican is probably sent up to drop ship from 928MS. Probably want to make sure that that piece is still available before getting excited.

On an 87+ that piece is in contact with the alternator depending upon condition and type of motor mounts. Make sure that the motor has room to rock without using the alternator as a pivot point. I guess you can always stick more spacer washers in.

But, other than that the theory behind it is sound.

[Crumpler]

Half the time I was just trying to find out where Carl had sourced the parts, before a sticker was put on it.

[worf]

Yeah, and some other issues too.

[BFlanagan98]

Can anyone measure the length of one of the chassis brace bars? I'm looking at some "Track bars" (they come in various lengths) and wondering if one of those might be close enough to fit the bill.

[Crumpler]

Hey Brian,
I will try and get measurements tonight and a pic or two.

It looks like the Summit bar has offsets to the bushings you don’t want? Might be the angle.

[maddog2020]

it's approximately 34" from bolt to bolt

[Crumpler]

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway ... 1045511-33



Something like this.

[h2pmr]

pictured is one i bought from Carl years ago, length of the rod, without the rose joints is 29 & 3/4"
let me know if you need any more pictures, dimensions
cheers
Phil

20250429_200216.jpg

20250429_200225.jpg

20250429_200230.jpg

[maddog2020]

the bolt is a m12 so it will need to be a 1/2 bore heim joint as the 3/4 heim joint head will be too large to fit. I spoke to speedway guys earlier on the phone. the bar measurements are not form bore to bore but the length of the center bar without the heim joints. they recommend 4 inch shorter than the bore to bore distance. they said 3" would work but may not have much adjustment. so a 30" bar would do it but it would need 1/2-20 threads

[maddog2020]

the problem is finding one off the shelf with 1/2 bore and a small head for the heim joints. That is easy. the problem is that most if not all of the pre made bars out there are 5/8 or 3/4 threads. I found 5/8 threaded shanks with 1/2 bore heads but the head diameter is too large.

What size threads are on Carls? it looks like he may have shaved the heads of the heim joints as I see a flat edge. is that ground flat or does it look machined?

[Crumpler]

I measured 29.25 inches on my bar, without hardware.

So there is a spacer welded to the skid that fits on the forward LCA. This was to drop the bar slightly to accommodate the aftermarket alternator.
It looks like 1/2 threads but don’t quote me.

[maddog2020]

pictured is one i bought from Carl years ago, length of the rod, without the rose joints is 29 & 3/4"
let me know if you need any more pictures, dimensions
cheers
Phil
20250429_200216.jpg
20250429_200225.jpg
20250429_200230.jpg

What is the OD of the bar, and what are the threads? 1/2? 5/8? Does the head of the heim joint look cleanly machined for the flat part?

[h2pmr]

pictured is one i bought from Carl years ago, length of the rod, without the rose joints is 29 & 3/4"
let me know if you need any more pictures, dimensions
cheers
Phil
20250429_200216.jpg
20250429_200225.jpg
20250429_200230.jpg

What is the OD of the bar, and what are the threads? 1/2? 5/8? Does the head of the heim joint look cleanly machined for the flat part?

i cannot remember if the hein joint came like that or i did it, both have been machined the same

20250430_201043.jpg

20250430_201101.jpg

20250430_201123.jpg

20250430_201137.jpg

pictured below is the other end, same size threads on the joint but Left Hand Threaded

20250430_201213.jpg

and as i think Dave said, needed at least one thick washer under each side joint to spacer it down a little
cheers
Phil

[maddog2020]

what is the bore size on the heim joint?

[h2pmr]

what is the bore size on the heim joint?

bore size is 1/2" and the height of brass part is 3/4"
cheers
Phil

[maddog2020]

these are the components I ordered from speedwaymotors.com



I'll let you know how it fits next week after it arrives.

[BFlanagan98]

Please do! If it works I'll order the exact same list.

[maddog2020]

Parts came in. Looks good. My front end is apart so it may be a bit before I can test fit but it should fit nicely. I’ve also got Roger’s new alternator so it might fit fine as it is smaller that the stock behemoth.

[worf]

I take it you aren't running a belly pan Sterling?

[maddog2020]

nope no belly pan... running commando.

[worf]

nope no belly pan... running commando.

Yeah, that bar doesn't work with undies.

[Crumpler]

I’m hoping you guys get the same experience, since I popped my mouth off on the benefits.

[h2pmr]

it fits with a metal under tray, just need to cut a slot in either side of it + spacer the under tray down about 5mm with spacers and longer mounting screws.
cheers
Phil

20250505_164532.jpg

[worf]

it fits with a metal under tray, just need to cut a slot in either side of it + spacer the under tray down about 5mm with spacers and longer mounting screws.

I am familiar with the need to cut holes in my undies so that my rod will fit.

[maddog2020]

it fits with a metal under tray, just need to cut a slot in either side of it + spacer the under tray down about 5mm with spacers and longer mounting screws.
cheers
Phil

20250505_164532.jpg

I'm thinking about welding a tab on those towhook/suspension yoke to move the bar forward and mount it on the top side. using a shorter bar would be a benefit as well.

[maddog2020]

it fits with a metal under tray, just need to cut a slot in either side of it + spacer the under tray down about 5mm with spacers and longer mounting screws.

I am familiar with the need to cut holes in my undies so that my rod will fit.

lol they say demintia is funny at the beginning....

[h2pmr]

i was merely showing it can be done, for those that did not know
i shall not bother in the future

[worf]

i was merely showing it can be done, for those that did not know
i shall not bother in the future

Chill. It's fine. I was just making a joke.

I used to have a 928 client that did all the mods. So, cutting and bending a new metal under-tray to fit was something that had to be done.

[maddog2020]

i was merely showing it can be done, for those that did not know
i shall not bother in the future

I'm glad you did. I'm running a half belly pan now and it is spaced down about 3/4 of an inch because of my oversized oil cooler and fan set up. It's good to know that I can make a small notch in it and still run half a belly pan. It only goes back to the engine support and can't go further because of the headers hanging down.

[maddog2020]

ok even with a small spacer (washer) the head of the bearing needs to bee cut down a bit. not quite as aggressively as the pic above. I''ll take a few pics after I get it properly clearanced.