8 cylinder front engine iconic vehicle
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By h2pmr
#291229
S4 + front wing lower plastic cover 92855908302, PET shows a securing clip for it 92855927300, should all 87+ models have them ?
cheers
Phil
By worf
#291231
h2pmr wrote: Sun Dec 29, 2024 2:16 pm S4 + front wing lower plastic cover 92855908302, PET shows a securing clip for it 92855927300, should all 87+ models have them ?
make it easier. post some annotated pictures so I know to what you refer.
By h2pmr
#291234
number 34 and i guess number 35 goes into a hole in the wing, just cannot remember ever seeing them
but probably all i have removed, had been removed before and just stuck on with double sided tape
cheers
Phil
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By h2pmr
#291535
pictures this time :thumbup:

upper bell housing removed from the 90 i broke and i presume its part number is 92811640201
someone cut the bottom section out with the number on it
is it worth anything in that condition ?
cheers
Phil
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By maddog2020
#291864
its fine as long as you put a steel bar between the 2 bottom bolts. Some consider it a hack but I did it to make removing the torque tube with the trans as it is a real bear to do it with the 6 speed.
By h2pmr
#291899
maddog2020 wrote:its fine as long as you put a steel bar between the 2 bottom bolts. Some consider it a hack but I did it to make removing the torque tube with the trans as it is a real bear to do it with the 6 speed.
many thanks and yes its still nice and straight :thumbup:
cheers
Phil
By h2pmr
#295194
anybody have a source of aftermarket versions of the rubber bellows that go on the short handbrake cable ?
i tried 92242410300 but it needs to be 2-3mm larger internal dia.
cheers
Phil

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By h2pmr
#295989
has anybody ever tested a washer bottle level sensor to see if it works ?
i have one out on the bench and there is just an open circuit between both terminals whatever the position of the float
but i can hear a faint click noise when moving the float past a certain position, just wondering if it needs to be in water to make a contact.
its 92864150101, and must be gold plated inside for the price it is now
cheers
Phil
By worf
#295997
h2pmr wrote: Mon Feb 03, 2025 3:32 pm has anybody ever tested a washer bottle level sensor to see if it works ?
Yes. A long, long time ago.
h2pmr wrote: Mon Feb 03, 2025 3:32 pm just wondering if it needs to be in water to make a contact.
I don’t think so. But can’t hurt to try.
By h2pmr
#299117
just in need of a part number of this fuel pipe rubber mount if possible
cheers
Phil

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By worf
#299139
h2pmr wrote: Fri Feb 21, 2025 4:38 pm just in need of a part number of this fuel pipe rubber mount if possible
You’re putting that on e-bay?

That’s for A/C pipes.

999.703.353.40

Matching clamp is:

999.591.863.40
By h2pmr
#299168
thanks Dave, no not going on ebay now i know the price
if you can buy it new for less than £10 its not worth it
anything £10-£20'ish i only list if there are no others listed or there are a few that might be needed
the 2 fuel pipe rubbers 92835652501 are approx £15 each and you might need a few.
i will be listing them for approx £7 each
easier and cheaper to buy from me on ebay than local OPC, and OPC's are certainly not local to all
a hobby i enjoy doing, helping other 928 owners and i make money at it
cheers
Phil
By Crumpler
#301141
Recommendation for proper torque?
8mm hex heads. Half axle to transmission.
I was going to treat it like any M10 bolt, but then found something much higher during a search, like 83nm or 61 ft lbs. Seems high?
By worf
#301144
Crumpler wrote: Mon Mar 10, 2025 2:23 pm Recommendation for proper torque?
8mm hex heads. Half axle to transmission.
I was going to treat it like any M10 bolt, but then found something much higher during a search, like 83nm or 61 ft lbs. Seems high?
81 N-m. Use a double-star patten after they are wrist tight. Once “forearm” tight, same pattern with torque wrench. The one more single star to double check.

They can work loose if not evenly tightened.

Make sure threads are axle-grease free on both bolts and holes.
By Crumpler
#301217
worf wrote: Mon Mar 10, 2025 2:28 pm
Crumpler wrote: Mon Mar 10, 2025 2:23 pm Recommendation for proper torque?
8mm hex heads. Half axle to transmission.
I was going to treat it like any M10 bolt, but then found something much higher during a search, like 83nm or 61 ft lbs. Seems high?
Thanks Dave!
81 N-m. Use a double-star patten after they are wrist tight. Once “forearm” tight, same pattern with torque wrench. The one more single star to double check.

They can work loose if not evenly tightened.

Make sure threads are axle-grease free on both bolts and holes.
By h2pmr
#302297
more a question for the powers that be
was going to finish off a thread, but would take more than a day as need to take pictures as i went.
but saving a draft does not save the pictures inserted.
any reason why ?
cheers
Phil
By worf
#302319
h2pmr wrote: Sat Mar 22, 2025 12:02 pm more a question for the powers that be
was going to finish off a thread, but would take more than a day as need to take pictures as i went.
but saving a draft does not save the pictures inserted.
any reason why ?
cheers
Phil
Ask here:

Customer Service
By h2pmr
#303185
i asked the question about not being able to save pictures with a saved draft of a post and it seems that's how it is.
no real problem, will see if i can finish off the thread with a couple of posts instead of just one.

anyway, actual quick question,, is the sunroof cable pictured the left or right one ?
and are these cables prone to any type of failure ?
cheers
Phil

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By worf
#303219
h2pmr wrote: Sun Mar 30, 2025 10:21 am i asked the question about not being able to save pictures with a saved draft of a post and it seems that's how it is.
no real problem, will see if i can finish off the thread with a couple of posts instead of just one.
It is actually much better to break up what would otherwise be a post with many pictures into multiple posts, each with just one or two pictures.
- you don't risk loosing as much work if you get stopped by a glitch
- pages will load faster since page length is a function of the number of posts not pictures. A page with 20 posts, each with 5 or 7 pictures takes forever to load. So, your long exposition with many pictures might end up taking up most of a thread page, but if it accumulates replies and flows to a second page folks won't have to tap their toes.

h2pmr wrote: Sun Mar 30, 2025 10:21 am anyway, actual quick question,, is the sunroof cable pictured the left or right one ?
No idea. They only go in one way. I never bothered to memorialize mentally which one is which side.

h2pmr wrote: Sun Mar 30, 2025 10:21 am and are these cables prone to any type of failure ?
I have never seen a "failure." I have had a set that was so gummed up from using the wrong lube that they were impossible to remove. I had to remove the headliner and guide tube assembly to get them out. And after an attempt, I decided that cleaning them would be more expensive for my client than replacing them with new. That shit was like tar and laughed at every solvent.
By h2pmr
#303295
worf wrote: Sun Mar 30, 2025 6:08 pm
h2pmr wrote: Sun Mar 30, 2025 10:21 am i asked the question about not being able to save pictures with a saved draft of a post and it seems that's how it is.
no real problem, will see if i can finish off the thread with a couple of posts instead of just one.
It is actually much better to break up what would otherwise be a post with many pictures into multiple posts, each with just one or two pictures.
- you don't risk loosing as much work if you get stopped by a glitch
- pages will load faster since page length is a function of the number of posts not pictures. A page with 20 posts, each with 5 or 7 pictures takes forever to load. So, your long exposition with many pictures might end up taking up most of a thread page, but if it accumulates replies and flows to a second page folks won't have to tap their toes.

h2pmr wrote: Sun Mar 30, 2025 10:21 am anyway, actual quick question,, is the sunroof cable pictured the left or right one ?
No idea. They only go in one way. I never bothered to memorialize mentally which one is which side.

h2pmr wrote: Sun Mar 30, 2025 10:21 am and are these cables prone to any type of failure ?
I have never seen a "failure." I have had a set that was so gummed up from using the wrong lube that they were impossible to remove. I had to remove the headliner and guide tube assembly to get them out. And after an attempt, I decided that cleaning them would be more expensive for my client than replacing them with new. That shit was like tar and laughed at every solvent.
thanks Dave
it was a time scale thing with the saved drafts, i will have to make another one and finish the thread before i sell this one on ebay.

will list both cables together on ebay, i see they are NLA from Porsche, if you have never seen any fail, must be very little call for them, but if it moves it rarely lasts forever.
cheers
Phil
By h2pmr
#304110
pictured is a brass version of the radiator breather pipe, 92810644302, which i think is NLA on this side of the pond
was removed from the radiator off the 87 i just broke
anybody found a source for these brass versions ?
cheers
Phil
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By worf
#304121
Never ever seen a non-plastic version.
By h2pmr
#304227
jschiller wrote: Mon Apr 07, 2025 5:11 pm What is the thread size? Belmetric has a few on offer:
https://belmetric.com/fittings/hose-adaptors/
thanks for the link, will look into it and see what i can find.
just need to check its the same as my S4 to make sure its the correct thread.
cheers
Phil
By h2pmr
#304571
may be of no use to you guy's in the US, but google FAST FT53152 and it should bring up the brass version of 92810644302
cheers
Phil
By h2pmr
#304592
have been asked a question as to where the little notch should point on the wiper spindle cover pictured ?
its the passenger side one from a RHD.
the drivers side one has a lug in the metal trim and a slot in the cover, so can only go in one position, but this one could fit in any position.
and is it just me or does anybody else get the "verifying you are human, may take a few seconds " when they log in ?
cheers
Phil
Image
By worf
#304596
h2pmr wrote: Sat Apr 12, 2025 2:05 pm have been asked a question as to where the little notch should point on the wiper spindle cover pictured ?
No idea.
h2pmr wrote: Sat Apr 12, 2025 2:05 pm is it just me or does anybody else get the "verifying you are human, may take a few seconds " when they log in ?
That is a countermeasure against the AI scrapers that took this site down a few days ago.
By h2pmr
#305307
anybody know of anybody that does a sticker for the cigarette lighter?, as mine has been rubber off.

link to what it should look like
https://928classics.com/parts-store/ash ... e-lighter/

and mine
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cheers
Phil
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By h2pmr
#306836
/\ /\ /\
i found a spare good fag lighter and think i have found someone who can reproduce a sticker for it, will know for sure in the next 6 weeks.

but anybody know the difference between a 92862421100 central locking motor and a 94462421100 central locking motor ?
cheers
Phil
By Zirconocene
#307718
Here's my question:

For the rubber connector between the blower motor on top of the HVAC recirculation box and the little tunnel that leads to the evaporator, does anyone use large band clamps to keep things tight? I just reinstalled the motor and am finding that there is a lot of slack in the rubber boot. Given all the crud that was in the evaporator area, I'd like to avoid ingesting any further leaves in there.

Cheers
By worf
#307730
Zirconocene wrote: Tue May 13, 2025 3:34 pm For the rubber connector between the blower motor on top of the HVAC recirculation box and the little tunnel that leads to the evaporator, does anyone use large band clamps to keep things tight? I just reinstalled the motor and am finding that there is a lot of slack in the rubber boot. Given all the crud that was in the evaporator area, I'd like to avoid ingesting any further leaves in there.
Yours is the first I've heard of the rubber boot being loose. It can be bitchy about getting it reseated.

The openings in the boot are not the same. Is it possible that it has been, over the years, reversed?
By Zirconocene
#307809
It is entirely possible that futzing with it has happened over the years. I may have screwed up the reinstallation but looking at the boot, it sure seems like there is a channel that is supposed to fit on the lip of the evaporator tunnel, so that's how I oriented it. If it's supposed to be flipped 180 degrees I can futz with it some more but the openings didn't seem to be particularly different in size so I went with what made sense.

I'll also look for more pictures online of that part, installed. Dwayne's writeup may provide me some good clues about what might be going wrong.

Thanks
By worf
#307810
Zirconocene wrote: Wed May 14, 2025 12:05 pm ... it sure seems like there is a channel that is supposed to fit on the lip of the evaporator tunnel, so that's how I oriented it...
Yup. The channel.

Ok then. I guess your rubber has just seen to many insertion cycles.
By Zirconocene
#308036
I asked over on TOS, as well, but there's folks here that are not much over there any more, so here we go:

On the CE Panel, what's the best way to clean corrosion on the relay socket female contacts?

And maybe to clarify, what's the best way that doesn't involve depinning those connectors from the socket, if possible? The A-W connector pins on the panel are pretty good but I think I must have cleaned them in the past given what I'm seeing. The relay sockets, on the other hand...

The root cause of the corrosion has (hopefully) been addressed, via my previous question.

Any help appreciated.

Cheers
By worf
#308051
I use 2000 grit sandpaper cut in thin strips wrapped around a contact file.

So, any piece of very thin spring steel with 2000 grit wrapped around it.

The contact file worked, until it was smooth shiny.

After that, I treat pins with a contact enhancer:

https://www.wurthusa.com/Chemical-Produ ... /p/0893622
Zirconocene liked this
By Sazerac
#308110
Does anybody know exactly what this is for or what problem it solves?

https://shop.928intl.com/Armrest-Backin ... o/ARMREST/
By worf
#308122
Sazerac wrote: Sat May 17, 2025 4:53 am Does anybody know exactly what this is for or what problem it solves?
Yes.

When previous technicians have repeatedly over-tightened the course-threaded screws that fasten the armrest/door pocket assembly through the door card to the door metal, the plastic around the holes in the arm rest will eventually break. Once two or more of those holes are broken the armrest assembly will be loose. You will notice this every time you close the door because that assembly is also the door pull. Eventually you'll go to close the door and just have the armrest assembly loose in your hand.

Those metal plates are fitted into the door pockets and add metal holes to a new 'top layer' of the armest/panel/door sandwich.

I've had a set of those - bought from Nicole - for 15-ish years waiting to use them on my '91. But, its armrests stubbornly refuse to break (for some reason...)
By h2pmr
#308141
Sazerac wrote:Does anybody know exactly what this is for or what problem it solves?

https://shop.928intl.com/Armrest-Backin ... o/ARMREST/
i have an armrest listed on ebay with pictures of that metal repair plate fitted to it, it does work very well.
if you can see UK ebay listings, its item number is 266983125266
cheers
Phil
By Sazerac
#308155
Many thanks to both of you. Question completely answered and more. Ebay posting was quite informative.
By h2pmr
#308934
removed from the 87 i broke, done approx 115k miles, still had original boot on and had not leaked any grease.
its the outer CV end.
the 2 shiny grooves can be felt with the finger nail.
the balls are undamaged
normal wear, or in need of replacing ?
cheers
Phil

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By hernanca
#309780
Sazerac wrote: Sat May 17, 2025 4:53 am Does anybody know exactly what this is for or what problem it solves?

https://shop.928intl.com/Armrest-Backin ... o/ARMREST/
I have two sets of install instructions for these. Will post if there is interest/I get some time. (Edit: or can find them :banghead: )
Last edited by hernanca on Mon Jun 02, 2025 3:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
By hernanca
#309782
Cause of S3 Intake Mismatch?

Anyone know what causes this? Took a picture of my car (in the shop) and noticed this. Also saw it in a picture of another S3 (red booted intakes). I haven't messed with them myself, yet, but plan to.

This is the larger pipe where it mates to the right side (US passenger) plenum. Is it just a matter of pushing the pieces together more?

As I understand it, the plenums are pretty much just floating there, held on by the clamped boots.

Image
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By h2pmr
#316558
anything special about the grease in the inside of the rear wiper motor, or just use standard grease ?
cheers
Phil
By worf
#316560
h2pmr wrote: Tue Aug 12, 2025 3:10 pm anything special about the grease in the inside of the rear wiper motor,
Not that I know of.
By h2pmr
#316562
thanks Dave, when i opened it it had gone to 50% fluid and 50% what felt like hard soap.
but all now greased and working again.
cheers
Phil
By h2pmr
#324612
87 S4 wheel side CV joint, i removed the cage and balls weeks ago but did not mark it or take pictures.
which way round does it go back on to the splines of the shaft ?
one side of it has a circle on it, does that go to the wheel side or diff side?
cheers
Phil
By worf
#324618
h2pmr wrote: Sat Nov 15, 2025 4:13 pm 87 S4 wheel side CV joint, i removed the cage and balls weeks ago but did not mark it or take pictures.
which way round does it go back on to the splines of the shaft ?
one side of it has a circle on it, does that go to the wheel side or diff side?
WSM 44-24 through 44-27 has a bunch of pictures.

You do have the WSM? Roger sells them on a thumb drive now.
By h2pmr
#324651
thanks Dave, the only place i did not look was the WS manual.
cheers
Phil
By Fox_
#325058
My spark plug wires are crispy.

Beru wires are NLA for the 85-86 S3.

Anyone had luck cutting wires and crimping on new threaded ends?
By h2pmr
#326563
anybody know the part number / can you get it on its own ?
securing wire for the ball of the throttle / cruise cable
cheers
Phil
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