[Crumpler]

Subtitled: Adventures in shop pressing, best 400 bucks I ever spent.

All new bushings. Powerflex on all but the rocker bar and rear upper control arm.


My first question is this:
After you hang and press out the rear hub, the inner race of the bearing is attached.
There’s a special factory tool in WSM, but it looks like a plate you get under the lip and press hub off of it. I can fabricate one but there’s no space to work it in there.
What’s the move, without ham fisting the hub?

[worf]

The “factory tool” is just a “bearing splitter.”

Easy google:

https://www.harborfreight.com/bearing-s ... 014710450d

[worf]

Don’t forget that I posted a long thread (here) on doing the rear control arms.

Lemme see…

[worf]

Rear Control Arm Bushing Replacement

[Crumpler]

Excellent resource!
No way I can screw this up now.

I had the pleasure of making an industrial strength metal jig, to hold the half axels on the bench. Because why plan ahead and loosen the rear axel nuts before you dismantle the car?

[worf]

Because why plan ahead and loosen the rear axel nuts before you dismantle the car?

Same logic applies when you pull the engine: don’t worry about breaking loose the crank bolt.

[linderpat]

someday I'm going to have all of these jobs done, so that my 928 rides like a new one.

[Chaos]

Based on the title…..way more than $20,000 let alone $400 I paid for someone’s front end refresh.

[worf]

Thanks for polluting a technical thread. Really classy.

[Crumpler]

Based on the title…..way more than $20,000 let alone $400 I paid for someone’s front end refresh.

I’m just happy people are reading and posting !
I always wondered what a front end refresh costs.
Surely there are aftermarket options cheaper then 400 right?!

[Crumpler]

someday I'm going to have all of these jobs done, so that my 928 rides like a new one.

You know Ed, as I pull the factory bushings, I have to say most of them still seem fine. The rocker bar bushings were toasty, but the control arms and sway were pretty pliable and feel like factory rubber still. At least on this car.
I’m guessing the front bushes are more of an upgrade for overall feel?

[linderpat]

I’m just thinking about what Gary did with his car. He said it was transformative. He did all the rubber. Maybe he’ll weigh in on this thread.

[Crumpler]

Indeed. I should make a judgement after I drive it.
The power flex bushes are stiffer than stock, so it should feel different.
Some progress today.

[Crumpler]

Not the prettiest factory welds that day.

[Crumpler]

Hey guys, question:
Before I press anything…
Rear bearings (new) have shielding on one side.
Factory bearings (old) did not.
Are these unidirectional?
And which side towards the transmission?

I found an old RL thread, but sounded anecdotal.
Nothing in WSM so far.

[worf]

IIRC I put the metal shield on the transaxle-side because:
- better support for press piece when pressing-in hub
- outer inner race stays on hub when disassembled, so plastic shield makes it easier next time.

Having destroyed one of these new bearings (see second point above) and then examining the entrails, there is no physical difference side to side. My cynical side suggests that the bearing maker saved $0.005 by using the plastic shield on one side.

[Crumpler]

Appreciate the support.
That sounds reasonable.

In full honesty, I committed the number two mentioned above yesterday. Not fully supporting the inner race while pressing the hub in.

I was impressed how easily the bearings go in if you heat the carrier and freeze the bearings. Granted the shop press makes a huge difference.
I expected a rough time just from sheer bearing size.

[worf]

Just remember: install the snap ring *before* pressing in the hub…

[Crumpler]

I’m overthinking this now, but hub is seated where I think it should be and sensor ring is not perfectly centered in window, with half axle loaded.
Normal, I’m hoping.

[worf]

I’m overthinking this now, but hub is seated where I think it should be and sensor ring is not perfectly centered in window, with half axle loaded.
Normal, I’m hoping.

I’ve never looked down that hole. So, I can’t form an opinion.

If you’ve got room for the snap ring, then the bearing is seated.

When you crank down on the axle nut it may pull the 1/2 shaft in just a bit.

Compare with the other side and/or with the bits of your old bearing.

I suspect it doesn’t matter.

You need new CV boots.

[worf]

Looking again… I don’t think the 1/2-shaft is fully seated.

[worf]

;… with half axle loaded.

Ok. So, you did have the axle nut cranked.

[Crumpler]

Dave thanks for following man.
I think I’m okay, pulling sensor on other side shows similar position of the ring while still at factory torque. The previous picture was nut at finger tight.

Looking at pic of the carrier before refresh, the hub was at same location as it is now.


Yeah, the boots are on the list. Sigh.

[worf]

Yeah, the boots are on the list. Sigh.

The boots are a “fun” job. Two cans of brake clean minimum.

Or, depending on condition/mileage, getting 2 rebuilt 1/2-shafts from Mark is a good option.

When the 1/2-shafts are 100k-mile plus I recommend that my client’s go the rebuilt route. Last time I checked Mark’s have new balls, etc.

[Crumpler]

How about this for fun…

5/8 aluminum plate jig, bolted through work bench.
8foot cheater, me on top of the car holding hub carrier with my feet. Sputtering curse word fragments.

[worf]

How about this for fun…

5/8 aluminum plate jig, bolted through work bench.
8foot cheater, me on top of the car holding hub carrier with my feet. Sputtering curse word fragments.

You trying to get it loose? You need a 3/4” impact wrench with lotsa amps or lotsa CFM.

*Next* time you will loosen those when the car’s on the ground. That’s when jumping up and down on the cheater works.

[Crumpler]

Man, I’m telling you. I got a large impact set up but no dice on this one. Obviously not large enough.
Still would have needed the jig.
No I don’t think I will forget to loosen next time.

[worf]

Man, I’m telling you. I got a large impact set up but no dice on this one. Obviously not large enough.
Still would have needed the jig.
No I don’t think I will forget to loosen next time.

Induction bolt heater?

[N_Jay]

Get rid of ratchet for a breaker bar.

Run bar horizontal

Move cheater out about a 6 to 8 inches.

Load end of cheater with 150 to 200 LB (or a person)

Strike breaker bar with a metal face dead blow hammer or a good mallet.

[Crumpler]

If you string certain curse words in the right order any torque can be broken Worf.

Yeah, heat used, couldn’t get horizontal because the stupid car is immobile and right next to the bench.
Anyway it’s done.

[N_Jay]

If you string certain curse words in the right order any torque can be broken Worf.

Yeah, heat used, couldn’t get horizontal because the stupid car is immobile and right next to the bench.
Anyway it’s done.

Good to hear.

Otherwise was going to suggest you find some fatter friends.

[Crumpler]

[worf]

That’s looking good. You’re going to need new rubber grommet thingies for the ABS/BPW wheel well harnesses if you want them retained to the hubs in a stock-like manner. (And if you’re not buying new ones at ~450 each.) Jeannie has a bunch of sets in stock. They are not cheap but each a set does all four corners.

If this was a ‘proper’ restoration you’d want new ABS senders too. But those are stupid expensive for what they are.

[Crumpler]

That’s looking good. You’re going to need new rubber grommet thingies for the ABS/BPW wheel well harnesses if you want them retained to the hubs in a stock-like manner. (And if you’re not buying new ones at ~450 each.) Jeannie has a bunch of sets in stock. They are not cheap but each a set does all four corners.

If this was a ‘proper’ restoration you’d want new ABS senders too. But those are stupid expensive for what they are.

Yes I was shocked (even for Porsche prices), they are stupid expensive.
Not in the works for this car. We will be making do for this stuff.
The harnesses from hatch floor to sensors is just terrible. Insulation is just gone.

[worf]

The harnesses from hatch floor to sensors is just terrible. Insulation is just gone.

For pre-‘90 (maybe pre-‘89.5) the ABS/BPW wheel well harnesses have that white braided nylon ‘stringer’ in the middle. That nylon shrinks with age, thus becomes shorter and cuts its way out of the insulation.

Cut that nylon.

Remove the ABS/BPW harnesses, replace and conductor sections showing exposed copper, and re-insulate.

So … that’s obvious. What’s not…

Install the harnesses on your suspension assembly before you lift it into the rear. That’s actually the reverse of the intended assembly procedure. That will also make it possible - or at least much, much easier - to figure out a way to secure those “restored” harnesses if you are not willing to spring for the ‘re-grommet’ kit.

[h2pmr]

whats the part number of the rubber grommet things Dave ?

[worf]

whats the part number of the rubber grommet things Dave ?

These are not Porsche parts. They are custom made bits. So no part number. They come in a set that does all the rubber harness retainers for all four corners. IIRC it’s 30 rubber retainers. Jeannie has inventory. I don’t know if they are on the website. About ~$300 for the set. Maybe less?

[worf]

Looks like 18 bits to a set.

Here:

[Crumpler]

Those are nice.

Thank you for the tip about cutting the string.
My primate brain was having some trouble with why the wire was longer then the string.

[worf]

No worries. To clarify yesterday’s post: The ABS/BPW harnesses are supposed to come out with the rear suspension.

If you’d still had grommety grommets rather than the invisible ones you have now, the harnesses would have been retained properly and it would have been slightly more obvious that you disconnect them(*) in the battery box, push them out and then remove the suspension.

(*) And t-axle harness.

[h2pmr]

ah, thanks Dave.
very little chance of removing the ABS sensors without destroying them, so might remove these grommet things from this new S4 and put them on ebay.
thats if the old girl is as bad as i think its going to be and i decide to part it out
cheers
Phil

[worf]

ah, thanks Dave.
very little chance of removing the ABS sensors without destroying them,

The ABS sensors have nothing really to do with this. The sensors plug into these wheel well harnesses. The rubber retainers (grommets) are on the WW harnesses.

so might remove these grommet things from this new S4 and put them on ebay.

Would you cut a timing belt to remove it and then sell it on e-bay? (I know you wouldn’t.)

And it’s also clear that you’ve not really thought, yet, about these retainers.

But, you’ll figure it out.

Hint: if the retainers are all still rubbery, then you have a replacement WW harness that is less than 10-ish years old and you should (attempt to) sell the whole harness… if the casing is still ok.

My observations:
- the new WW harnesses appear to be made from better more-modern materials.
- only the ABS/BPW/RDK harnesses are available (right now) for all four corners. but they will work for all 86.5 - 95.

[h2pmr]

ah yes these are on the actual wiring loom and not the ABS sensor, i had just fitted an ABS sensor to another make of car in my day job and it had similar rubber mountings along the length of the ABS sensor/harness itself

but surly if you can get new ones to fit onto the loom, you can remove the old ones from an old loom even if you have to destroy the old loom
need to have a look at this S4 this weekend
cheers
Phil

[worf]

… if you can get new ones to fit onto the loom, you can remove the old ones from an old loom even if you have to destroy the old loom …

Umm… yeah. Sure.

[worf]

Four words:

Old Knock Sensor Connectors

[h2pmr]

Four words:

Old Knock Sensor Connectors

yes i suspect they might fall apart in my hands when trying to remove them but i will give it a try.
will start a new thread on the one i am collecting tomorrow and will post the outcome on there
don't want to send this thread off topic to far.
cheers
Phil

[h2pmr]

had a spare 5 mins, original patina FOC but still pliable'ish

20250121_203120.jpg

20250121_203158.jpg

20250121_203211.jpg

[worf]

Well, that there -^ is some luck.