[Crumpler]

Hey guys.
Project on 86.5 continues.

I have rear shift coupler off of main selector transmission rod.
I have the cross tunnel supports off.
I have the rear pinch bolt free.
That coupler does not move for me.
Is it supposed to move forward onto the TT shaft?
There’s no good in no that I can find in WSM.
I was going to re-torque the forward pinch coupler and muscle it towards the fly wheel, but looking for best practices.
Thank you.

[worf]

Stop.

There is no movable clamp on the rear as there is for the front.

The driveshaft and torque tube are a single assembly. The driveshaft isn’t supposed to move in the tube. While you might be able to move it *now* you won’t be able to move it when you get it back.

Separation of the transaxle and torque tube happens “on a bench” with the TT and Box supported such that there’s no non-axial force on the box’s main shaft. Bending force on the main shaft can break the clamp, warp the shaft, etc.

Follow the WSM procedure for removing the gearbox/tube assembly.

[worf]

Oh wait.

It *is* on the bench.

Support the tube so that there’s no droop. Remove pinch clamp bolt. Unbolt the TT and pull it off the gear box.

[worf]

Never mind. It’s still in the car.

Follow WSM.

Shifter mechanism is part of assembly .

[worf]

WSM 34-3 is where it starts.

[Crumpler]

STOP. Lol.

Worf’s saving me again.

Ok. I will drop the transmission like a normal person.
I found videos of just torque tube, but it does sound like they all had to loosen the transmission up enough to move it off the TT.
I will report back in.

[worf]

…, but it does sound like they all had to loosen the transmission up enough to move it off the TT.

With the existing deteriorated tube, you might be able to use a slide hammer to get the driveshaft moved about 2-ish inches and out of the main shaft coupler.

That’s not a bad way to go if you don’t have a jig to make sure there’s no bending force on the main shaft during disconnection. Hard part will be figuring out how to secure the slide to the shaft.

But you will still need to assemble a jig to bolt the rebuilt tube to transaxle and not “bang” the shaft with a hammer to move it. ‘cause there’s no other way to assemble.

Also, it’s time to replace the rear shift rod coupler and front rod guide bushing (unless you are taking this opportunity to delete the front shift rod with “A Hans Assembly.”)

Also, note detailed WSM procedures for shift linkage setup.

[Crumpler]

I ended up just pulling it all.
I will put some pics up tomorrow.
I calculated my age times desire to do this again and then divided by disposable income and declining testosterone levels.
It’s a full rear refresh.
And yes I’m going with the full Hans shifter.

[Crumpler]

Did the bearing removal song and dance yesterday.
In hindsight, I would pay Constantine to do it for me ;)

Various jigs. But it required a two by four and a BFH from the other end to keep things moving.

Autopsy showed two of the three bearings were going. I don’t know how to evaluate the harmonic, but it still had its collars in place.

I have a set of super bearings coming.
Potentially a stronger shaft being produced mid November.

[worf]

In hindsight, I would pay Constantine to do it for me ;)

[Crumpler]

The Superbearings are glorious.
Constantine is an artist.

[Crumpler]

The eagle has landed.

[Crumpler]

Ok gents.
For those not in the know: this is the new Black Sea Research Drive Shaft. Uber strong.
Things to be wary of when reassembling TT to transmission?
I have ordered the special grease that Constantine likes. Also new bolts for the pinch clamps.
Torquing to 66 ft pounds? That’s the TQ I saw in other threads.
Thread lock for bolts? Blue? Red?
Assembling will be done on the bench, so I assume that will make visibility easier for aligning splines.

[worf]

Does Constantine not use the Porsche grease specified in the WSM?

I do not use loctite. But, I do target a bit over the spec. The WSM says 80 nm. IIRC the spec books say 80-85. I target 85 to 90.

[Crumpler]

Can do. Thanks.
I don’t know if this is the same same product :

Use Porsche sourced Hi-Pressure Grease, P/N 000-043-305-73, for the splines of the drive shaft which are clamped within splined couplers used in the different drive lines. Regular anti-seize does not have the correct viscosity and will migrate during driving, causing premature corrosion and spline fretting.

[worf]

I don’t know if this is the same same product :

It is indeed the Porsche grease as specified in the WSM. One tube lasts me many years. It’ll last you forever.

[Crumpler]

Hey can I get affirmed on this?
Hex bolts for TT to transmission.
45mm times 6.
PET not much help, lists quantity 8. And all same.
I have six but two not fully threaded. I didn’t mark down position on disassembly.

I’m assuming full threaded at each corner, and then the ones by selector rod on top have the shoulders?

[worf]

I’m assuming full threaded at each corner, and then the ones by selector rod on top have the shoulders?

That’s a reasonable assumption. Just make sure that the partially-threaded bolts don’t “run out of thread” too early. (Look in the holes and where the treading starts.)

I could go check my notes if we need “Rob Edwards-level” certainty on this…

[Crumpler]

I think we are good thanks again.
Only hassle was trying to line up shaft for the pinch bolt groove.