8 cylinder front engine iconic vehicle
  • User avatar
  • User avatar
  • User avatar
  • User avatar
User avatar
By Crumpler
#66128
Also going to redo the blower inlet, can’t live with the grotesque green mushroom filter. There was also a reducer involved that took inlet down to three inches.
Ordered 3.75 diameter everything. Hard size to source materials.
This shop had some options and seems really high quality stuff.
Image
User avatar
By milrad
#66435
You ain't messing around with that rubber!

And yes, that is the blower inlet in the circled picture. It ain't great either, as least subjectively. You have to run what is basically heavy duty dryer hose down across the front, through the grille area, and into the left front fender. You have to squash the hose pretty good to make it fit, or cut some big holes. I haven't figured out a material improvement yet.
User avatar
By byrdman454
#66496
Dave, have you tried putting that wheel/tire combo on yet? I think you might have to do some major fender rolling or surgery to get those to fit. My nephew's car has twists like that (not sure if they are identical offsets as yours) but I had to roll the fenders just to fit 275s. I got 295s on my S4 and it is full. I believe the only ones running 305s are the GTS with the factory fender flare or body work.
User avatar
By Crumpler
#66501
milrad wrote: Sun Mar 14, 2021 11:35 pm You ain't messing around with that rubber!

And yes, that is the blower inlet in the circled picture. It ain't great either, as least subjectively. You have to run what is basically heavy duty dryer hose down across the front, through the grille area, and into the left front fender. You have to squash the hose pretty good to make it fit, or cut some big holes. I haven't figured out a material improvement yet.
Hey, thanks for the insight on the inlet. It’s a good design I would not have thought of it. Assuming they were trying to get intercooler temp down further? But seems vicious cycle if it’s pulling warmer air through this core first?
I didn’t think I could get everything done by April so I won’t be at DE till June.
byrdman454 wrote: Mon Mar 15, 2021 9:50 am Dave, have you tried putting that wheel/tire combo on yet? I think you might have to do some major fender rolling or surgery to get those to fit. My nephew's car has twists like that (not sure if they are identical offsets as yours) but I had to roll the fenders just to fit 275s. I got 295s on my S4 and it is full. I believe the only ones running 305s are the GTS with the factory fender flare or body work.
Yeah, I’m getting them mounted this week so they are not on yet, but those concerns you mention are real Mike.
Really, the plan is to make the car fit the tires. That’s the good news I guess, cosmetics are secondary. There’s going to be plenty of rolling .
User avatar
By Crumpler
#73267
Out of nowhere: random knock events.
No changes to set up.
Cooler day outside.
Excuse the camera work I was holding the phone and shifting!
If there’s any pattern it’s lower rpms. As low as 1200?!
Can happen at cruise but mostly associated with throttle adjustments. I did not run up to boost levels.
The timing would not have changed and I had pushed it hard on other runs with no documented knock events.
There is a newer rattle, I’m assuming from the SC but I haven’t had time to look into it. That would certainly be more pronounced at lower RPMs. I’m hoping it’s false positives setting off sensor. But I can’t rule out that I wasn’t getting false negatives for knock until this morning. WTF.

https://youtube.com/shorts/34a5eaYh7wk?feature=share
User avatar
By Crumpler
#77456
Potential source of engine noise setting off the knock sensor?
Notable rattle found after last run just for anybody following.
The lower TB idler freely moving around on the mounting arms. Certainly enough to tap on the damper and block.

This is the second time in for this problem. It had caused the same noise last year. I thought I had addressed it with new circlips.

Spent yesterday tearing it down, the radiator has to be pulled now if I need to get to the crank pulley because of the extended pulley.

Deleted the lower idler.
I know, un-sanctioned, but I will own it if something happens.
Hell if the belt jumps off I don’t think that bearing would stop the carnage anyway.
By AirtekHVAC
#79066
Good work buddy. Been following. Now, at 2:30 in the morning, sitting on the crapper rereading the whole thing. Still don’t understand it all, but awesome job!
User avatar
By Crumpler
#79231
I don’t understand it all either Ron, lol.

Sounds like it was a late night on the potty my man.
Hope you got some sleep.

How are you doing with your kit?
And which car is it going on?

Best
Dave
User avatar
By Crumpler
#81891
Update:

I have walking up boost with progressively smaller pulley sizes for the blower.
A 3.2 inch seems to be the sweet spot right now, it provides 3-5 pounds boost which was the original goal, without any knock events on the idiot light.
As the boost increases the AFR at WOT have been decreasing to ridiculous low numbers — high 8’s with five pounds of boost.
Because of the correlation I am assuming the progressive FMU needs to be dialed in next.
AFR’s unrelated to positive boost look pretty reasonable.

For the official record, I’m using Ken’s LH chip and the stock EZF chip. Still using 87 FPR and the 86 dampers...
User avatar
By Crumpler
#84508
Hey guys, adjustments to FMU involve dialing it in with the vacuum signal disconnected at idle. This simulates WOT for FMU. While monitoring fuel pressure, the unit is dialed to a set point 48-55 psi.
There is an additional fine tune needle valve to adjust AFR at boost.
Pretty slick, but here’s is where I am at:

AFRs look really good (mid 12’s) until I drop vacuum and approach WOT. Then with boost the FMU takes over and even with full adjustment on this unit, it goes way rich.
As my boost goes up it drops to low tens, even occ high nines.

I researched the vortech website and they will traditionally recommend 10.8-11.1 AFR at max boost.
This is not a vortech unit but is this where you want to be with an FMU in general terms? It seems rich but maybe this is a cushion you need without better engine management ie shartuner.
Image
User avatar
By Crumpler
#84885
Meh. Two issues:

The adjustable rate FMU just isn’t getting me there.Max boost is still way rich. I talked to the procharger vendor, who is is old enough to have experience with FMU’s and he recommended 11,5/1. I’m in the nines currently.
This is the unit I’m using currently:

https://www.maxgms.com/products/model-2 ... -regulator

I will probably look at a vortech unit next with maybe a 12:1 ratio.

The other issue was a plateau in boost at about 4800.
I am assuming there was belt slippage.
It’s a smaller 3.0 inch pulley so I pulled it off and media blasted it for a little more grip. Then a smaller belt with more tension. That seems to have fixed it for now.
milrad liked this
User avatar
By Crumpler
#90038
Update:
Pulled the BEGI FMU off and put a vortech 12:1 on instead. The AFR at boost is better. Not perfect but better. Max boost high tens/low 11’s.
I’m getting to a point where I feel that this is probably a good as it will get without different engine management (ie sharktuner).
Boost is there without knocks.
I couldn’t get any semblance of reliable numbers off the gtech performance meter. I was probably not doing it right. I’m setting up a Dyno hopefully next week to see what I have.
User avatar
By Crumpler
#95812
Proof of life.

Car laid an egg on dyno, nice initial curve then looked disgusting. AFR was in the nines at boost.
On autopsy multiple boost leaks. Largest at maf to oring on jpipe for throttle body. This is an issue I had before and thought I had control over it with some fabricated brackets. But boost was still able to unseat the maf (there is no boot on the S3).
I JB welded some dog ears on the maf sensor and now it bolts to the throttle assembly directly. Best I can do.

Seeing no real future in forced induction engine management with stock ecu’s I have ordered a VEMS set up. More to come on that.

At this point smoke test is golden. Boost leak test is good, meaning I don’t hear anything— there is sound in the head and it won’t hold pressure but I assume this is intake valves right?
User avatar
By worf
#95943
Crumpler wrote: Wed Aug 04, 2021 8:57 am— there is sound in the head and it won’t hold pressure but I assume this is intake valves right?
Yup.
User avatar
By Crumpler
#96448
Appreciate it Dave.

Thank you Jason. How is your rebuild?

My 328 was just stolen at work and got a guided tour of north St. Louis apparently. Interesting part was that BMW could ping it, but getting a cop to care enough to go find it was the challenge.

Recovered, but total loss. I’m shopping for a daily driver as we speak.
User avatar
By worf
#96530
Crumpler wrote: Fri Aug 06, 2021 6:44 pm My 328 was just stolen at work and got a guided tour of north St. Louis apparently. Interesting part was that BMW could ping it, but getting a cop to care enough to go find it was the challenge.
Holy crap. What’s the point of all the tracking stuff then?
User avatar
By Crumpler
#96610
That’s a good question.
The location service also will not tell you where it is, I assume to avoid armed vigilantism.

At day two I found myself asking why I was even trying to get the car back, if the police or the insurance company don’t give a shit why should I.
User avatar
By worf
#96653
Crumpler wrote: Sat Aug 07, 2021 6:18 pm That’s a good question.
The location service also will not tell you where it is, I assume to avoid armed vigilantism.

At day two I found myself asking why I was even trying to get the car back, if the police or the insurance company don’t give a shit why should I.
Well. Fuck it then. I want a remote detonator.
User avatar
By Crumpler
#96847
Ok so can someone confirm or deny this:

If I disconnect the signal line to FMU then I get better high end power and higher AFRs at boost. Not ideal but higher high tens lower 11’s .

So with an easy five pounds boost and 24 lb injectors, no FMU, and I’m still rich and not remotely lean at positive manifold pressure.

Is this my FPR? Currently it’s an 87 FPR on an 86.5, this was a hold over from Porken chip conversion.
The dampers were never converted and still MY 86.
Boost condition causing positive pressure to FPR?
Would there be any difference in a FPR diaphragm between dropped (zero) vacuum signal and positive pressure?

And then what would the positive pressure tell the EZK to do? MY 86 has that vacuum pick up on the computer.
I guess some of this is conjecture and probably irrelevant if I’m going VEMS but sanity check if anyone has time.
User avatar
By milrad
#97005
Crumpler wrote: Fri Aug 06, 2021 6:44 pm Appreciate it Dave.

Thank you Jason. How is your rebuild?

My 328 was just stolen at work and got a guided tour of north St. Louis apparently. Interesting part was that BMW could ping it, but getting a cop to care enough to go find it was the challenge.

Recovered, but total loss. I’m shopping for a daily driver as we speak.
Sucks about your Bimmer, whether you wanted it back or not. Never look past an opportunity to upgrade though!

My rebuild is coming along. I'm back on it after the move and cramming all my stuff into a cramped, un-airconditioned space. It's damn hot here in the summer. First world problems, I know. Damn sure is nice having Roger <6 miles away and Sean <9. Shortened my supply line and help line immensely :biggrin:

The intake is back on, getting ready to refit the the fuel system shortly. Next up will be the SC setup, hoses, AC components, and crossed fingers. I'm modernizing the SC setup a bit, eliminating the FMU, going back to stock FPR, higher psi injectors, upgraded MAF, and a shark-tuned chip. Wish me luck. Engine compartment is looking pretty satisfactory these days.
User avatar
By Crumpler
#115263
Ok Gents.
The thread has run it’s course as they they say.
The physical set up for the DIY supercharger is set for all intents and purpose.
The tuning side will be a different thread.
Not much else has happened since last post.
I deleted the FMU and got slight improvement but the basic trend continues: low end awesomeness, too rich at boost, occ knocks start around 4000 rpm.

I ordered a VEMS set up, went with a guy in Estonia that does a conversion kit with adapters to the stock ECU harness. That shipped last week.
worf, SeanR liked this
User avatar
By Crumpler
#115352
The morale of the story may be, you can’t slap a supercharger in a 35 year old car on a whim and a six pack.
… and that Erik was correct.

Although, I do remember someone else selling plug and play SC kits for 928’s that use stock ECU’s.
I even saw the dyno graphs on the website! ;)
78 in Fort worth

Ed that would look good with new tan carpets and b[…]

Ineos Grenadier

It’s not an SUV. It’s a hardcore offro[…]

This upcoming DFW First Saturday Breakfast will be[…]

Looks like I have one tracked down. Thanks guys[…]