Open Road

Hi friends,

I'm looking to install an accusump on my '85 for track duty. I know there's plenty of controversy over the best way to keep oil in the right spots, believe me I've read them all over the last few weeks while researching this. I feel like an Accusump set up, along with good quality oil and a reasonable rev limit, will be my best approach for now.

That said, is there a complete A-Z kit with all the bits and pieces needed? I'm getting confused looking at all the parts listed under an Accusump search. I know I need a 3-qt reservoir, an oil filter adapter, and a way to trigger it if pressure falls below 30psi, but... is there a kit with all the bits and pieces I know I will forget? If not, can anyone give me a parts list to get it done with a minimum of "oh shit we forgot the xxxxx" action?

Thanks guys!

Brian Flanagan
1985 928S street/track toy "The Redhead"
1988 -928S4 daily driver "The Brunette"

This is going to sound familiar:)

No kits. They are for weak. DIY.
We have a very obscure racing platform my friend.
But also bombproof.

Is the car stripped?
You can do anything you want.

FWIW I have not had trouble without one, and have a cabin OP gauge as back up.
I’m only intermediate group however.

I would look at opening up the crankcase venting.
Worf can give you specifics I bet. But easiest way is via oil fill neck. I run it to atmosphere, with trap that runs back to pan.
I’m excited to have another S3 track guy.

Two different but related problems:

1) Crank case venting to avoid puking oil into the intake with extended high-rpm and high-load operation.

2) Avoiding uncovering the oil pickup under high-G cornering and starving the main and rod bearings.

Increasing CCV by at least 100% will allow oil in the heads to drain more quickly whereas otherwise it would get somewhat trapped due to crank case pressure. This will help maintain oil level in the sump.

Is it enough? Probably depends upon cornering load. What's the limit? Don't know. Many 928 engines have been blown up at the track due to oil starvation.

Dry sump is the only perfect recipe.

2x CCV. Accusump. Those will help.

Also look to retrofit the screen, windage tray, and vacuum sealed oil pick up assembly from '78-'79 (IIRC.)

Windage trays. Drain guides for the inside of the case.

Lots of stuff has been done.

No kits.

Tumo's Twin-Turbo thread (on The Other Site) has a lot of good info.

Thanks Worf. I've spent a few different sessions trying to search out details of Tuomo's solution but have not found it yet. I'll assume links for the Other Site are verboten on here, any chance you could PM me a link or anything specific?

I did stumble across what looks to be maybe a good solution using a BMW inline 6 air/oil separator, are you familiar with that one?

Thanks!
Brian

BFlanagan98 wrote: ↑Wed May 07, 2025 2:40 pm Thanks Worf. I've spent a few different sessions trying to search out details of Tuomo's solution but have not found it yet. I'll assume links for the Other Site are verboten on here, any chance you could PM me a link or anything specific?

I did stumble across what looks to be maybe a good solution using a BMW inline 6 air/oil separator, are you familiar with that one?

You can post whatever the fuck you want to here... as long as it's 928 stuff.

WE are funders of this site. There is no shadowy corporation behind the curtain.

I'm not familiar with the BMW unit. Many of us have used ProVent.

Note that air/oil separation is related to crank case ventilation but is NOT crank case ventilation.

Here's a long thread:

32V S3 Stroker Crankcase Ventilation (CCV)

^^^^^ and a very good thread at that!
Not implemented fully yet, but prepared for and plan to before final tuning.

No one has mentioned yet (I don't think), oil pan spacers as also helping by distancing the oil from the frappe machine above. The oil pickup must be correspondingly extended, and you need to remember that the low oil mark on the dipstick actually becomes the full mark (or middle?) mark.

hernanca wrote: ↑Fri May 09, 2025 10:35 am No one has mentioned yet (I don't think), oil pan spacers as also helping by distancing the oil from the frappe machine above. The oil pickup must be correspondingly extended, and you need to remember that the low oil mark on the dipstick actually becomes the full mark (or middle?) mark.

Did we forget that in the other thread? LoL.

Also need to run the IMI starter if you space pan.

IIRC, full mark is 40% from low mark. Since there's no reason to run max fill the low mark is the target for oil fill, but OK if exceeded slightly.

*BiG* fucking problem though if you later sell the car, without a will-marked dipstick and new owner/new technician is clueless. It takes 3-4 quarts to move from min to max with a pan spacer 'cause you are "filling the spacer" and not just the sump section of the pan.

worf wrote: ↑Fri May 09, 2025 12:16 pm Also need to run the IMI starter if you space pan.

Ah, yes! Forgot about that!

worf wrote: ↑Fri May 09, 2025 12:16 pm IIRC, full mark is 40% from low mark. Since there's no reason to run max fill the low mark is the target for oil fill, but OK if exceeded slightly.

Thank you sir. I was just remembering the low mark was the target. I believe we covered this in another thread and the dip stick coming in to the pan at an angle was also factored in.

worf wrote: ↑Fri May 09, 2025 12:16 pm *BiG* fucking problem though if you later sell the car, without a will-marked dipstick and new owner/new technician is clueless. It takes 3-4 quarts to move from min to max with a pan spacer 'cause you are "filling the spacer" and not just the sump section of the pan.

Indeed! Someone needs to make a new dipstick product for the huge pan spaced 928 market!

Or maybe the pan spacer itself should have a warning message engraved on it!?...

hernanca wrote: ↑Fri May 09, 2025 2:28 pm Or maybe the pan spacer itself should have a warning message engraved on it!?...

Remember the Better Mouse Trap Theory.

Best thing I can think of is a custom oil fill cap engraved with "Oil Pan Spacer - Fill to Min Only"

Also, note that there is a similar but smaller effect when using the silicone OPG. 4-5 mm below Max is *Max*

Roger should have pan spacers and oil pickup spacers in 3-4 weeks. OIl pickup spacers are done already.

worf wrote: ↑Fri May 09, 2025 3:56 pm
Remember the Better Mouse Trap Theory.

Best thing I can think of is a custom oil fill cap engraved with "Oil Pan Spacer - Fill to Min Only"

Also, note that there is a similar but smaller effect when using the silicone OPG. 4-5 mm below Max is *Max*

Yes, that makes good sense - engrave the oil fill cap itself!

Along the same lines, maybe even the oil dipstick itself - right above where the oil level is read?

I'm working on how to modify the factory dipstick, by heating up the metal part and pulling it down 3/8th of an inch.

Anyone who is going the route using a ProVent, I have a new one I'll make available for shipping only, plus a contribution to the operation of this site. No $$$ to me!!

Gary

If there is no one with a Porsche use, I have been planning to add one to my GL320.
The are famous for oiling up the turbo and intercooler from crankcase vapors.

We can wait till sure.

@N_Jay I am set as far as ProVents go. Don't know if Gary still has his available, however.

@Gary Knox just HOW MANY ProVents do you have stashed away?! I found that I bought one from you (also for a good price) in '23!

I have 2 pro vents left over from previous experiments

I've been running an Accusump on my track car for the past 24 years. I've had no issues ... ever and have driven quite competitively.

I'm moving my track car drivetrain and brakes over to my street car so the complete Accusump system will be available for sale within the next few months.

The attached document outlines the installation. I replaced the Canton 24-006 3 Qt canister on March 14, 2022 so it is only a four years old.

The original full Accusump kit was purchased from Devek when they sold kits and installed in 2002. It includes the cap that fits over where the normal 928 oil attachment point, a large oil HP6 racing oil filter fitting, an electric open/close valve that I wired via the ignition on circuit (separate on/off switch), high quality fittings and the original oil lines.

If you have any questions, send a PM or email to electronikrepair (at) earthlink.net