Open Road

just collected it today, parked for the last few years, ran when parked etc etc
details of it:
WP0ZZZ92ZHS842032
1987 S4 automatic
C16 - Great Britain market
M28.42 - engine serial # range 81H 05001>10000
A28.14 - transmission serial # range 16 H 10001>15000
Paint code G1 - Guards red
Interior code NK
Seat code TW1 - linen
carpet code 2XF - linen


M058 - "Impact absorbers front and rear, Bumper with shock absorber instead of
shock absorber-tube"
M249 - Automatic transmission
I302 - Type designated on rear end
I330 - Blaupunkt Toronto SQR 46 4 x 8W
I454 - Automatic speed control
I490 - Hi-Fi sound system (8 speakers, 1987-88)
M494 - 87-88 Additional amp Blaupunkt BQA 80
I513 - Lumbar support - right seat
M533 - Alarm system
I538 - Right seat with positrol and lumbar
I567 - Windshield tinted, upper part
M650 - Sunroof

way beyond economical repair, which makes me feel better about breaking it, fuel flap pictured just ready to be easily pulled off by hand
i knew the bodywork was rotten, but will just need a bigger brush than i thought to sweep up all the rust that will fall off it when i get it on a lift.

good bits:
engine turns over via the bottom pulley, so its not seized
has a full tool kit except for the pliers
door seals, steering wheel, dash etc are all in excellent condition.
wheels look like new
fully working alarm tailgate lock

we get rotten bodywork and you guys in sunny climes get sun faded trim and cracked dashes

bad bits
fuel pipes under body, see pictures

will be the middle of Jan when i take a week off and put it on a 2 post lift and see the full extent
then check crank end float, fix the fuel pipes and see if it starts.
need to check a few other things tomorrow, then might have a few questions
cheers
Phil

Check the state of the air filter before you crank it over, you don't want to pull crap into the engine. I've got a feeling you will be keeping the alarm tailgate lock, but if you don't, you know I'm after one.

yes more than likely a mouse nest in there.
i need to see if all locks are the same, i have 2 different keys and have not checked which is the odd one
but you have first call on it.

first questions
fuse panel chart pictured is 92861002302, put that in google and get nothing
i see you can still buy the 03 version.
anybody know what if anything is different between the 02 an 03 versions ?

and is there a Porsche part number for the sunroof tool pictured?

cheers
Phil

whoa, that's about as bad of rust as I've ever seen! Good luck with it.

901-564-085-05

h2pmr wrote: ↑Sat Dec 14, 2024 2:44 pm and is there a Porsche part number for the sunroof tool pictured?

20241214_133422.jpg

thanks Dave, its now on ebay

anybody know if this luggage cover is an original or a reproduction version ?
cheers
Phil

h2pmr wrote: ↑Sat Dec 21, 2024 4:40 am anybody know if this luggage cover is an original or a reproduction version ?

If it’s “stretchy” it is possibly original. If the material doesn’t stretch then it is a reproduction.

worf wrote:

h2pmr wrote: ↑Sat Dec 21, 2024 4:40 am anybody know if this luggage cover is an original or a reproduction version ?

If it’s “stretchy” it is possibly original. If the material doesn’t stretch then it is a reproduction.

yes it is a very stretchy and elastic type of material and just realized how faded the other side is, so my guess is its a factory one.
we do get some sun over here to fade material, sometimes

cheers
Phil

just had a better look under the old girl, to make a plan of attack on it starting on the 10th of Jan

rear off side jacking point just rotted away will need to put the arm of the 2 post lift on the nearest bolt of the alloy suspension mount and see what happens, will leave the tailgate closed to help stop the rear falling off
did not dare look at the nearside one

front one not quite as bad but only time will tell if its still got any strength in it
and i am pretty sure the doors will not open when its on the 2 post lift


cheers
Phil

Poor 928.

an uneventful strip of the rear interior, just many seized in screws
and the full extent of the rot, the old girl will creak and flex a bit when it gets on a 2 post lift for the last time in its life

WTF is that? A big spooge blob of dielectric grease?

sadly no, its glue that's set rock hard

h2pmr wrote: ↑Sun Jan 05, 2025 2:32 pm

20250105_094829.jpg

I'm not sure what we are looking at?

h2pmr wrote: ↑Sun Jan 05, 2025 3:09 pm sadly no, its glue that's set rock hard

Any chance it is "Hot-Melt" glue? Try a heat gun.

linderpat wrote:

h2pmr wrote: ↑Sun Jan 05, 2025 2:32 pm

20250105_094829.jpg

I'm not sure what we are looking at?

got the glug dug out and found the reason for the glue
one less thing i can list on ebay
cheers
Phil

first day of the strip down and its as rusty as i thought it would be...



as last time, first job, crank end float check = 0.2mm
make sure engine turns over via bottom pulley and its got oil and water in it check
clean air filter check
clean out fuel tank check
put new fuel in, put a fully charged battery on and see what happens when the ignition is turned on
fuel feed and return pipes leak like sieves check

removed all the plastic, rubber and copper and corroded hoses and run a 10mm copper pipe from the original fuel feed pipe under the bonnet, straight to the fuel filter, but just my ffing luck my length copper pipe is about 8" to short.
so using a bit of lateral thinking used a spare under bonnet fuel feed pipe i had lying around to make up the missing 8"
and just used some rubber fuel hose for the return line

ignition on and after about 10 seconds i have no fuel leaks
turn the key to crank it and nothing.
remove fuse panel and find the usual immobilizer wires cut into the starter circuit.
rejoin the starter wiring and try again
engine cranks over, sounds ok but not starting.
tomorrows job
check if spark and fuel are getting onto the top of the pistons
cheers
Phil

h2pmr wrote: ↑Sat Dec 14, 2024 10:41 am … parked for the last few years,

… in The Channel.

Are there signs of body work where you found those giant rust tumors?

worf wrote:

h2pmr wrote: ↑Sat Dec 14, 2024 10:41 am … parked for the last few years,

… in The Channel.

Are there signs of body work where you found those giant rust tumors?

it might have been re sprayed in the past but no actual accident damage to it.
has a lot to do with the rock salt they use to grit the roads with in winter, its very corrosive over the years
removed the fuel tank and the extent of the structural rot is very bad.
just above the gas tank cap is right through to the interior...


with the tank removed, the hole is where the tank vent pipe goes through and the black tube is the back end of the bumper impact absorber.... never seen it that bad before
and was easier to cut the quarter panel to get at the bumper retaining nuts

its a good runner


was getting spark and fuel, but just did not crank it over for long enough yesterday.
all 8 cylinders working and engine sounds good, just alt bearings not so good, but i can live with that now i know the the engine is good
front bumper off and engine out tomorrows jobs.
cheers
Phil

must have been done a few years ago, made me smile...

h2pmr wrote: ↑Sun Jan 12, 2025 2:28 pm must have been done a few years ago by an idiot, made me smile...

FIFY

engine out, rear suspension out, even managed to get the handbrake cables out without damaging them, lots of gentle heat helped.
and transmission out, luckily the antiroll bar mounting points were one of the few places that were rot free.
interior and front suspension left to remove then body goes to be recycled.

one question, how would i know if the 87 engine has the piston squirting jets ?
cheers
Phil

thats it fully stripped of what i want


and a few unconventional methods of removal, when heat does not work


and a few more of the true extent of the rot






cheers
Phil

shell now being recycled into bean tins etc.
bare'ish shell, with tailgate, doors , windscreen, bumper beams still on
bonnet and wings removed, minus the corrosion =320KG.
just a case of stripping and cleaning all the parts and selling them.

was going to make a bar stool out of these, both front springs broken, so will now have to use the rears
cheers
Phil

Wow, that was 914 levels of rust. Impressive job on the tear down.