Open Road

Current project has morphed into entire rear end R/R.
The clamps for the rear sway bushings.
Reuse v. Replace?

It doesn’t seem they are available, Roger is sourcing a used set.
I’m sure I could find some aftermarket solution if pressed to do so.


I pried them apart on the bench.
They are a little disfigured, but I can probably get them to engage again on the new bushings.
Best way?

Crumpler wrote: ↑Sat Nov 09, 2024 9:40 am I pried them apart on the bench.
They are a little disfigured, but I can probably get them to engage again on the new bushings.
Best way?

There’s no ‘best’ way that I’ve found. They all suck. Good to know that these are NLA now.

Minor deformities will work themselves out as the clamps are bolted down.

Last time, IIRC, I used my press to disengage and then the least “pulling apart” possible to get it off the bushing.

I don’t recall exactly how I reengaged it on the new bushing after plating.

Thanks Dave.

Good to know I haven’t invented a problem here.

Crumpler,

When I installed new bushings and then the clamps on the NOS 928 Specialists rear antisway bar, it was a bitch in high heels getting everything back together. Those clamps fought me every step of the way.

All I can tell you is to read these excerpts from a post I made on TOS in the past about this:

"Last night, I took apart the rear anti-sway bar from the donor 1988 S4 rear suspension I have for the purpose of harvesting the bushing clamps. They are in relatively good condition and still plated. As opposed to the corroded mess that are the clamps on the Red Witch. Getting the clamps to release was a bit of a bitch. It took some samurai action with a pair of screw drivers to finally pry the latches apart. Once off, I found the bushings were surprisingly soft and pliable."



"I laid out all the parts for the 928 Specialists bar, then put most of them back away. I am only installing the bar right now. I will install the adjustable drop links later when the rear suspension is back together.

I lubricated the inside of the new bushings with Energy Suspension poly bushing grease. I have several tubes onhand from various bushing install jobs I have done over the years. Good, sticky stuff.I put the bushings on the new bar and then started what I thought would be the simple process of relatching the bushing clamps.
Sucker...

The instructions mentioned using a large C-clamp to compress the bushing clamp. Yes, it will do that. Too bad it doesn't get the metal lip to latch under the hook. It took me two hours of fighting, cursing, violencing, and general mayhem to get both clamps to latch. Prybars, screwdrivers, a vise, a C-clamp, a large set of adjustable pliers, a long bolt, and new curse words were involved. And the pretty plating is no longer so pristine on the clamps."


So, yeah...

Seth,
Everything you posted is accurate. Those things can be a beatch to deal with. When I have something like that kicking my ass (which can be often while dealing with 928s), I just think to myself that if it was easy, monkeys could it.

Hey Seth!
Hope things are well.
I laughed when I read the description of the screwdrivers. That’s exactly what I did.

I don’t know, I’m not looking forward to re-assembly.

sounds like there might be a need for an easier to install aftermarket part since the factory ones are NLA

maddog2020 wrote: ↑Wed Nov 13, 2024 10:58 am sounds like there might be a need for an easier to install aftermarket part since the factory ones are NLA

Were the original rubber bushings this hard to install, or is it an issue that the Poly is not as easily compressed as rubber?
Maybe the poly bushings need to be made a little undersized to reduce the interference?

I'm thinking more along the lines of a new clamp that is easier to install using the factory bushings or aftermarket as well.

Obviously the factory had a way to do this. And, I think it’s safe to assume that, it didn’t involve two giant screwdrivers and a stream of cursing in German (more likely Turkish.)

Last night, when this thread bumped, I looked through my pictures for evidence of the two times i’ve done this before. I didn’t find any pictures(*)

And that sucks. I have several recollections of how I did it, but only one of these is a recollection of what worked and the others are recollections of what I tried but decided wasn’t going to work.

When AI can look through my many tens of thousands of 928 pictures and find pictures of “Porsche 928 rear sway bar” wake me up.

I have no idea how this is configured other than this discussion, but from the talk of a vice and such I wonder if using a press with a jig to hold the parts so they would compress and latch is the way to go (or maybe the way the factory did it)?

N_Jay wrote: ↑Wed Nov 13, 2024 1:42 pm I have no idea how this is configured other than this discussion, but from the talk of a vice and such I wonder if using a press with a jig to hold the parts so they would compress and latch is the way to go (or maybe the way the factory did it)?

Undoubtedly the factory had a jig of some sort.

worf wrote: ↑Wed Nov 13, 2024 2:09 pm

N_Jay wrote: ↑Wed Nov 13, 2024 1:42 pm I have no idea how this is configured other than this discussion, but from the talk of a vice and such I wonder if using a press with a jig to hold the parts so they would compress and latch is the way to go (or maybe the way the factory did it)?

Undoubtedly the factory had a jig of some sort.

How hard would it be to make one out of hardwood, then use a press?

only pictures i have of them are from a GT i renovated from a few years ago, from memory i used a very large pair of water pump pliers and a lot of effort
as with most 928's this side of the pond, very ffing rusty
https://photobucket.com/bucket/21592d89 ... f1ab5f54ec

cheers
Phil

I found this old Carl walkthrough, some insight given on how he dealt with the clamps.

https://928motorsports.com/wp-content/u ... lation.pdf

Actually the clamps engaged pretty easily just with the bench vice. Pretty anticlimactic.
My cheat sheet says 34 foot pounds torque. That’s seems puny for Sway bar mount to body?
M10 (8.8) bolt.

Crumpler wrote: ↑Thu Dec 19, 2024 7:15 pm My cheat sheet says 34 foot pounds torque. That’s seems puny for Sway bar mount to body?
M10 (8.8) bolt.

WSM says 46 N-m which is the “standard” torque for the average M10 bolt.