Open Road

I came across an advertisement this weekend for conversion kits, mostly for LS or Ford engines.

I'm not saying i would do it but, it's damn intriguing.

Through unfortunate developmental issues of my first SC install .... I have a reverse drive procharger unit of the same spec sitting on my shelf in the garage.
Moving a fan and the coolant return hose, I would have enough room to put the second one on the driver's side and use the alternator belt for the second unit.

I'm imagining a second three inch pipe, around the side plenum on that side, meeting in a Y with the other unit in the rear.

Fuel and heat issues would abound. And yet....

Do itttttt

connect the battery 1st. sorry... had to post that... lol

lupo.sk wrote: ↑Tue Aug 15, 2023 10:56 amDo itttttt

Right?
How can I not, lol.

maddog2020 wrote: ↑Tue Aug 15, 2023 6:00 pm connect the battery 1st. sorry... had to post that... lol

No kidding!

Crumpler wrote: ↑Tue Aug 15, 2023 10:11 pm

lupo.sk wrote: ↑Tue Aug 15, 2023 10:56 amDo itttttt

Right?
How can I not, lol.

maddog2020 wrote: ↑Tue Aug 15, 2023 6:00 pm connect the battery 1st. sorry... had to post that... lol

No kidding!

No good story ever begins with “I made a wise and informed decision”.
Back in 2013, all I wanted to do with my cayenne TTS was new racing brakes… all of a sudden, I was in the middle of doing hybrid turbos, CO2 IC spray, brand new custom exhaust with racing cats, custom intake, 900cc injectors, electronic boost controller, custom wrap and custom tune and now I’m on my second engine as I blew a valve on the first one ;)

So yeah, you gotta do it.

[/quote]

No good story ever begins with “I made a wise and informed decision”.
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I may have to put this up in the garage;)

This...
Thread...
[...]
...Without pictures of the alleged Strosek twin supercharged 928(s?):

My retinas are damaged from the holy light.

Wow.
Is there a story?

Crumpler wrote: ↑Fri Aug 18, 2023 2:09 pm Is there a story?

I'm sure there is, but what little of the story I knew I have forgotten. Only thing I seem to remember is that a 928 with one of these was found neglected somewhere?

The setup is slightly different between the two pictures, but I don't know if that means two different incarnations or the refinement of one incarnation. Can anyone tell from the pictures?

Merge pipe acquired

DE season is done.
Back in the lab.

This is going to take some time but not unrealistic so far.
I’ve got three reasonable anchor points for a plate.
I’m going to mock up a wood plate next for the blower.
Radiator is going to have to move forward. Headlight motor will have to go.

Crumpler wrote: ↑Sun Oct 15, 2023 2:37 pmHeadlight motor will have to go.

Then get rid of the entire mechanism. You’ll have lower weight and less front weight bias. And free up room under the fenders for “stuff.”

Anchor points done.
Mocking wood plate.
I’m hoping I can get some reasonable belt tension from the alternator tensioner. There isn’t a-lot of room behind the plate for anything fancy.

I reached out to a pro supercharger guy, looking for hidden issues or things to watch for. He really didn’t have anything in terms of pitfalls. My concern was if the boost was not equal would there be cross pressure issues. He didn’t think another BOV was necessary, but there’s no space to move it past the merge pipe. To prevent surge on the second unit I decided to put one on that side as well.
There’s already obnoxious hissing, can’t imagine what two will sound like.
All that air may actually help with cooling who knows.

Crumpler wrote: ↑Sun Oct 22, 2023 5:33 pm There’s already obnoxious hissing, can’t imagine what two will sound like. r

That’s the opposite of my only “complaint” with my Twin Screw. Mine’s too quiet. I really wish it made more of a Mad Max Intercepter sound. I tried cloths pins and playing cards, but it wasn’t the same.

Crumpler wrote: ↑Sun Oct 22, 2023 5:33 pm All that air may actually help with cooling who knows.

Well… ummm… yeah… I’m pretty sure its doesn’t work that way.

worf wrote: ↑Sun Oct 22, 2023 6:53 pm

Well… ummm… yeah… I’m pretty sure its doesn’t work that way.
[/quote]

Pah!
They laughed when Hart Motorsports created the beer-thirty, Covid PPA mask too.
But true genius will never be stifled Dave.

Crumpler wrote: ↑Sun Oct 22, 2023 7:32 pm But true genius will never be stifled Dave.

I agree completely.

Crumpler wrote: ↑Sun Oct 15, 2023 2:37 pm Radiator is going to have to move forward. Headlight motor will have to go.

This is a ridiculous project

Do you have knock sensor/light?

You could use a smaller secondary 'charger if you are feeding it from the primary. But, I guess you already have that one.

I am wanting to make fixed, always up, headlight mounts for my '88. Thinking of positioning the headlight pods back a bit and down inside the fender a little.

PorKen wrote: ↑Tue Oct 24, 2023 9:24 pm I am wanting to make fixed, always up, headlight mounts for my '88. Thinking of positioning the headlight pods back a bit and down inside the fender a little.

I am tempted with these approaches:

PorKen wrote: ↑Tue Oct 24, 2023 9:24 pm Do you have knock sensor/light?

I think it’s an “audible” alert.

PorKen wrote: ↑Tue Oct 24, 2023 9:24 pm This is a ridiculous project

Do you have knock sensor/light?

Yes, yes, there’s a wired knock control into VEMS.
For those following at home.
You know technically Ken, this sickness all started with those EPROM chips you sold me ;)

Hey buddy, by the way, I saw someone mentioning the integration of Porken chips with the new supercharger kit OTOS. Seemingly without your knowledge. Penny for your thoughts. :)

worf wrote: ↑Tue Oct 24, 2023 11:42 pm

PorKen wrote: ↑Tue Oct 24, 2023 9:24 pm Do you have knock sensor/light?

I think it’s an “audible” alert.

If I stop posting, you can assume there was a mushroom cloud.


In all seriousness to the gallery, this is what it takes for an old car to compete in today’s DE.
The perk is the look on the face of the guy in the new six figure car having to give a point by to 1986.
God, I think I’m turning into Kibbort.

Plate and primary tensioner in place.
Pleased with belt wrap on the SC pulley this time.

I applaud your wherewithal and fearlessness.

I envy your lack of warranty exposure.

At the risk of attempting to teach grandma to suck eggs(*)…

To reiterate: remove the headlights. They will flop up and down on the track unless other measures are taken.

If your timing belt will be due in the next year or five, do it before you button everything up, ‘cause you’re not going to want to dig your way to it.

(*) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Teaching_ ... _suck_eggs

I will always value your advice Worf, that’s one of the reasons I’m here;)
Yes, one of the things happening is a tear down and service before the final assembly.

I’m not as brave as you guys might think BTW.
The Procharger P series is not incredibly efficient or powerful. Certainly not like the Tritium-5 plasma infusion unit being touted on the other channel.
I will still be in low boost territory likely 8-10 ish.
The one unit seems to have maxed out at 5-6 pounds. I will likely put on larger blower pulleys if boost is greater than 10. There’s no room for a boost regulator.

The cooling will be the next issue.
Moving the radiator forward, the clearance decreases. I spent alot of time looking, between the hose configuration and the height it was challenging.
I did find a Griffin unit off the self which will work.
The core volume is more because it’s thicker than stock. Once that is in I need to determine how much fan I can stick in there.

Investigate using the space freed up by head light removal for cooling. You can’t have enough cooling when you boost a 928.

Well, maybe you can, but I’m not certain anyone has done it yet. I know I could use more cooling at low air speeds.

The previous fan set up was a 16 inch and two eight inch fans, on the stock radiator. The clutch fan got ditched many moons ago. Actually, it wasn’t MY stock because I was using a 928 unit without any coolers built into it. I don’t know, it was from Landseer’s parts hoard(928 106 023 16).

That set up actually had pretty fair cooling ability, until stop and go. Then it was futile.

Crumpler wrote: ↑Sun Nov 05, 2023 11:27 am That set up actually had pretty fair cooling ability, until stop and go. Then it was futile.

Yeah, low air speed becomes the issue.

F1 cars melt if they stay in the pits too long. At one point they did cylinder deactivation when hot-idling to increase margin.

You just gotta decide how much margin for in-the-pits idling you need.

Umm. So my plan with radiator.
The unit has a fill cap, see picture above.
With normal radiator cap, there would only flow back to expansion tank with real over pressure.

With the traditional 928 setup the bib would allow relatively active flow in comparison ?
I guess that’s my question, how much flow do we see?

My plan is to delete the lower seal on the cap and just use the cap’s upper seal as a cap.

Not sure what’s really going on in your cooling system. So… at the risk of telling you what you already know:

In the stock setup two things control flow rate through the radiator: RPM (via water pump) and area/depth of thermostat opening. (Some non-Wahler thermostats don’t have as much opening area/depth and therefore suck.) This assumes that the radiator and hoses are stock or at least have the same or better resistance to flow.

The vent hoses on the radiator and water bridge allow vapor to move to the reservoir (which is why the hoses and reservoir nipples are “high” above the nominal coolant level (and why the water bridge hose needs to be routed over the upper radiator hose.) This is what allows the cooling system to “self-bleed” sufficiently. There are no valves or seals on the vapor hoses or inlets/outlets.

There’s nothing wrong with having a fill cap on the radiator. But, if the cap is spring-loaded for pressure relief via the vent hose then the system won’t self-bleed as well.

Is that discourse going in the direction you seek?

Yes, perfect. This is still stock set up.

I got lost in an old thread that implied an abnormal function if there was not regular coolant flow to expansion tank, they probably meant vapor.
Thank you.

Tedious routing of lower radiator hose. Between moving parts.

worf wrote: ↑Tue Nov 21, 2023 5:01 pm

No kidding.
“It fits” is a relative term.
Many fabricated brackets to hold the hose in place.

I have to keep my post count up right?

Bilateral blow off valves secured and vacuum tee.
The procharger BOV specs seem to be secret sauce, but seems to shut at around -3 mmHg.


The blower intake for the second unit is going to be compromised to some degree because there is no place to run it to a cool air source. There is no hat or elbow that will clear the radiator, but with this setup I can at least access the crank pulley without pulling the radiator, which was the case before.
I essentially made an intake filter to fit the 3.75 entry.



I have to place the oil cooler, but hopefully will getting it running tomorrow.

No rubbing, no worries;)

Here’s the first start up:

I’m going to start three fans, 8/14/8 inch.
The plywood is the size of the radiator.
I don’t enjoy bending up the radiator fins with those harpoon fasteners , so I’m going to fabricate some type of aluminum frame to hold the fans in a more modular install this time.

Is the picture deceiving or is there room for 2 more small fans above the existing small fans?

I think the superchargers might be in the way of adding 2 more fans

I told a buddy today that this will be the greatest car I have driven or it will melt.

Oil cooler is behind drivers headlight space.
Intercooler exchanger is behind passenger headlight space.
Horn moved to where the windshield washer tank was.
The fans will integrate on the forward side of the radiator. I can’t get more clearance there for additional fans, but may have room under upper radiator hose on inside.
The coming time suck will be a design for manual control of the headlights. While she is nothing close to showroom, I can’t ditch the iconic headlights for some reason, it’s part of her DNA.

Fans went in today.

Ok, I need some feedback on this.

The lights would be very easy to fix in place minus everything but the bulb and shell, dropped in height, as we had imagined earlier in the thread.
It looks reasonable, but I’m not convinced I want to race with bulbs up?

I guess I could pull them for race days and do some type of filler cap.

Might reduce the air drag if the lights and covers are off!

A long time ago, in a century far, far away…

David Lloyd, one of the first 928 racers, used frisbees with magic marker smiley faces on them in place of the lenses.

didn't someone fit GM truck headlights in the place of the fog lights once?

some interesting ideas here:

https://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche ... ource.html

Crumpler wrote: ↑Sat Dec 02, 2023 6:45 pmThe lights would be very easy to fix in place minus everything but the bulb and shell, dropped in height, as we had imagined earlier in the thread.

This is exactly what I want to do, at least with my lightweight '88 manual, possibly my supercharger '89 auto.

I think it looks great with the headlamps up but not on - which my '88 does sometimes already due to a bad relay or motor position switch.

I plan on making brackets to hold the 'wishbone' carrier, ditching everything else. Unfortunately, there are not many mounting points inside the fender, using existing bolt holes.