Scott at Team Harco wrote: ↑Sat Jan 02, 2021 3:46 pm
All good questions. All solid advice. The shop I sent my block to was through 928motorsports (US Chrome).
Hmm...
Scott at Team Harco wrote: ↑Sat Jan 02, 2021 3:46 pm
The question remains. What are good options for getting the studs out?
Here's what I would do:
1) Contact US Chrome. Tell them about the issue, that you have new studs on the way, and that you need to remove their too-short studs. Ask them what removal process they would recommend. In particular I'd want to know if they used one of the more-ridiculously strong Loctite (-like) products.
2) Do a search on Rennlist (ugh... hate to validate TOS, but it still is what it is for a while) on the 928 forum and find the threads on head stud removal. In particular look for threads with posts from GregBBRD.
3) If the internet and US Chrome disappeared this evening here's what I would do tomorrow:
call my machinist and ask him.
If he got hit by a meteor:
- devise a way to evenly heat the block. My arm would get too tired with a torch and I'd want to heat it evenly and slowly over the course of 30 minutes or more. I'd want to avoid locally over-heating the block. So, the heat source can't be super-hot like a MAPP gas torch. How heavy is a 944 short block? Probably too heavy to move around I guess even at half the weight of a 928 short block. I'd want to have the block at about 200°F, but not hotter, to get some expansion of the Alusil. Any core temperature increase will help if there's no good way to target 200°F.
- gather up 20 new (disposable) nuts. Using my Bolt Buster induction heater, I'd get each stud dull-red warm at the top and then counter-tighten two nuts on each. When the stud cools, it will tighten the nuts even further.
- heat the base of a stud with my bolt buster to break loose any locking compound. Not as hot as at the top though. I'd use my industrial contact thermometer to get an idea of how long it takes the BB to heat the base to 2xx°F (The temp at which Loctite Red breaks whatever that is after looking at the bottle.) At that temp, then...
- attempt to turn out the stud.
If you can weld a big-assed nut onto each stud, then that will work better than double-nutting. But, I'd still want that stud hot at the base and the block warm too.
If they used one of the "green" Loctite variants that doesn't loosen at less than 300/400/500+°F then I wouldn't attempt removal; I'd send it back to them and tell them to remove their own too-short studs and then correct any block dimensional issues resulting from removal. And that would piss me off since I'd have to take apart the block (again.)
That's my two cents.
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