8 cylinder front engine iconic vehicle
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By h2pmr
#175984
the orange one i rebuilt to look and go how i wanted my ideal 928 to be
the SE was restored to a just as Porsche built it ideal
this 1987 S4 auto restoration is going to be more a general "daily driver" restoration, original where it needs to be, aftermarket where it doesn't and repaired where it can be.
see the "#3 restore, part, keep or sell" thread for the initial start of this thread.

Any major restoration/ rebuild SHOULD start with the paintwork, but as this is not a full on restoration as my other 2, the paintwork will keep for a while.

so up on a 2 post lift on Saturday removed all the wheel arch liners and set to cleaning all the crap out and careful checking for excess corrosion, and apart from surface corrosion the old girl is very solid, a "while your there" job is cover all metal parts with wax oil, to try to halt the surface corrosion from getting any worse over the coming years
then a careful check of all visible components and with large note pad make a list of what needs urgent repair or replacement.
that alone took about 6 hours, time flies when having fun.

taking the fuel tank cradle as example of this restoration:
my orange one got a new stainless steel one fitted.
my SE got a new genuine one fitted
this S4's is a little rusty but still solid, so has just been waxoiled and of the 2x M6 mounts for the fuel filter metal cover, one had snapped and the other the threads had rusted away so badly that i was able to rethread it to an M5 and fully tighten a nut back on and just fitted a small clamp to hold the side that the mount had snapped, see pictures

so, needs doing urgent:
metal fuel lines-tank to engine bay, very very rusty around the rear wheel arch area, as usual.
S shaped power steering hose- reservoir to pump leaking
power steering pump belt needs tightening.
yes i know there should be way more pictures but i was having fun

was expecting more, so far so happy.....
more to follow
Phil
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By worf
#176072
Good luck and keep up the good work.

Given your climate - a continuous salt bath - it’s no surprise that one learns how to deal with corrosion.
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By h2pmr
#176099
before putting the front splash shields back on was a good time to correctly secure the front splitter, very satisfying to remove/cut off due to rust the various bolts and screws fitted randomly and fit the correct screws and spira clips etc to make it a snug fit again to the painted bodywork.

taking the horn pictured as a final analogy of how this rebuild will go:
the orange one got them both removed, mounting point cut in half and a generic light weight horn fitted.
the SE got a pair of new genuine ones.
this S4's high tone still works ok - the one pictured mountings point on the body had broken off and it was just lying on the inside of the splitter and had seen better days.
so just welded the mount back onto the body, but will leave just the one working horn on, no real need for 2 horns.

so next job was the interior, starting at the rear, so as not to overwhelm yourself, check and assess what needs repairing and what needs replacing and writing it all down, very much a subjective thing but if its fitted it needs to work, might look old and a little tired but it must work.

again overall not bad condition with the usual faults:
speaker rings cracked.
P/S door panel starting to lift as if its to tight against the window glass
door check straps not holding open which is a real pain.
clock was none standard, and as its something seen all the time, needs to be a standard digital version.
heater motor did not work on any speed, i have a very poor sense of smell but i could see the slight wisp of smoke coming from under the bonnet, so i guess its seized up.
dash and pod has slight cracking but not bad so will leave that for now.

next onto the wiring itself:
another satisfying job i find is removing the 35 years worth of alarms, immobilizers after market radios etc - see pictures- and correctly putting it all back to standard, even got some correct wiring loom tape to make it look factory fresh'ish.
and remembering to remove, clean and retighten earth points and the bolted 12v feeds on top of the fuse panel.
carpets stuck back down with spray glue and a good clean and vacuum, all correct nuts bolts and screws used, so when i need to remove anything i know its just as it should be with no surprises..

thats the interior and underneath checked with lists made of all the parts to order, which will all be getting fitted, repaired next spring/ summer.

that just leaves the heart of the beast...
more to follow
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By h2pmr
#176345
its now Tuesday and do the easy jobs first, change brake fluid and diff oil, then change the auto box oil, filter and drain the torque converter, no history of them having been done so do it now so no nasty suprises for next year.
got the filter and pan gasket from a local motor factors, filter right, pan gasket wrong -i guess its for a Merc pan- but the oil looked more pink than red...
luckily local OPC could get a right one for the next day.

onto the engine, tried to tighten the power steering pump but the adjuster bolt would only turn half a turn either way and then get jammed, so off with the pump, and an ideal time to fit the leaking steering hose, and found the adjuster bolt bent and jammed between pump and the mounting, i guess someone did not see the 3rd bolt needs loosening to adjust the pump.
bolt pictured below finally removed, mounting cleaned and fitted back in now found one mounting bolt in the block and the top two mountings in the pump have stripped threads, but i still have plenty of helicoils from when rebuilding the other two 928's.

while waiting for the auto box gasket i would drain the coolant, oh somebody has put red coolant in i thought as it came out, then as it finished dripped out i realized that's red oil dripping out, can just see the red in the coolant bridge pictured ... :hitfan:
so that's where the auto box oil had gone, so removed the radiator.
a radiator from local OPC was not on the cards at £2kand nobody i could find could do the auto box cooler side of the radiator :bigcry:
but have just ordered one from Radtec here in the UK which is a better price of £500 for a new one.

with the radiator removed, do i just put a cambelt and water pump on, rebuild it and drive it next year or remove engine do the head gaskets and hoses all at the same time, which then leads onto an intake hose refresh etc.
need to think about that for a while first.
only good news was looking back in the sketchy history was the A/C was refreshed 2years ago so SHOULD be not to much trouble to get it working again.

so that's the old girl fully checked over with a long, or very long list of parts needed, depending on what i decide to do with the engine.
load it on a trailer and take to our Carlisle branch where it can be stored in a warm and dry garage, give the body work a good clean and put it under a dust cover until spring/summer next year when the actual rebuild/restore begins in earnest.

The cover is a genuine one from Porsche, which was cheaper than the ones i got for my other 928's , the Porsche crest on it looks 3D with the way the shading is printed behind it.

so its all safe and sound in storage and its now time for a warm :drink: and a think.
yes i will take more/better pictures next year :thumbup:
cheers
Phil
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By h2pmr
#180946
new radtec radiator arrived yesterday :thumbup: a thing of beauty and English craftsmanship :jumper:
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By Benno
#181087
Interesting, I was not aware of the Radtec Radiator (https://www.radtec.co.uk/shop/makes/por ... il-cooler/) their website says its capacity is increased by 30%. I would assume they either added another core or increased the the size of the cores.

I wonder how this Radtec compares to the CSF radiator (https://csfrace.com/world-exclusive-hig ... 28-models/) commonly sold in North America. CSF claims their B-tube technology is 15% more efficient, no mention of increased cooling capacity over stock.
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By Cheburator
#203198
Benno wrote:Interesting, I was not aware of the Radtec Radiator (https://www.radtec.co.uk/shop/makes/por ... il-cooler/) their website says its capacity is increased by 30%. I would assume they either added another core or increased the the size of the cores.
I was RadTec's first UK customer - fitted it to my ITB-ed GTS based race car. Used to run water temps of 110C with the original rad in. With the RadTec, water temps dropped to 97C... Ok, the original rad wasn't the cleanest, but I am inclined to believe RadTec's claims about the increased cooling capacity....

By the time you land a CSF rad in the UK, you are well out of pocket...

In addition, RadTec are the supplier of choice for intercoolers for a well known Swedish niche hypercar manufacturer... :biggrin:
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By h2pmr
#203486
project restarting on the 24th of March :jumper: :jumper: .
i have got most things i think i will need, not really looking forward to fitting the below fuel pipes -as i think they were the first things Porsche fitted to the shell on the production line and then fitted everything else- but they need doing.
if i get time i will be trying the $36 int fan motor repair from a RL thread, and fingers crossed it will work on a RHD 928
so fingers crossed even more it will be on the road for April :thumbup:
cheers
Phil
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By h2pmr
#207157
car back on a 2 post lift and cambelt now fitted :thumbup:
had to helicoil the 3 adjusting mountings for the power steering pump and the bottom 2 mounting holes in the block for the actual pump mounting, if only people knew to use a torque wrench...

had to make a long bolt for the bottom A/C compressor mount as the front mounting had been broken off, but its nice and secure now.
tomorrows jobs, fit the new radiator + fans etc, fill all with fluids + lots of radiator flush and if all goes to plan a first actual drive on the open road to see if its actually any good.
and it helps working at a main dealer as can borrow the trade plates for the test drive :thumbup:
cheers
Phil
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By h2pmr
#207295
now have all the under bonnet back together, the radtec radiator fits like a glove and will probably outlast the car.
filled with fluids and started it, runs fine but :

1) autobox is now leaking out of torque converter housing :banghead: is it usually the seal pictured? picture of the actual seal from a recent RL thread.
what sort of a job is it to replace this seal?
roughly how long does it usually take to replace?, car being on a 2 post lift, with many transmission jacks to hand.
anything else that would need to be replaced when i am doing this seal?

engine temp gauge reading max hot all the time even when engine is cold.
removed the 2 female connectors from the temp sensor and it still reads max hot.
does the gauge default to max hot if it see's an open circuit?
cheers
Phil
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By Sazerac
#207332
Phil, I immensely enjoy your threads. Thanks also for posting the bit about the Radtech radiators. Both my GTs have been converted to the double passive/active oil cooling with hoses from GB. To do that I had to buy new OEM radiators that are speced actually for slightly older 928s than my GTs. I am a bit skeptical about the side tanks of the OEM radiators. Those Radtech's look really good. Otherwise, keep up the good work!
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By worf
#207347
@h2pmr I’ll see if I can dig up the answer to your TEMP-I question. I don’t recall if it’s TC or NTC. I think it’s NTC. But, in the mean time, test the sender with a multimeter and a heat gun. I know that it’s a resistance circuit with one signal and one ground (unlike TEMP-II with two signal circuits that ground to the sender body.)

@Sazerac I have never personally seen an OEM multi-cooler 928 radiator ‘bust’ one of the side coolers thereby allowing coolant and oil/atf to mix. However, the ‘89 that’s here suffered from the ATF cooler in its all-aluminum radiator splitting and allowing coolant to circulate to the automatic transaxle. This, coupled with a Carl Fausett all-aluminum coolant expansion tank that prevented the owner from seeing the change in coolant color, cost the owner a transmission rebuild.

BTW, I have a perfect Carl Fausett (928 Motorsports) all-aluminum coolant expansion tank for sale.
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By h2pmr
#207354
Sazerac wrote:Phil, I immensely enjoy your threads. Thanks also for posting the bit about the Radtech radiators. Both my GTs have been converted to the double passive/active oil cooling with hoses from GB. To do that I had to buy new OEM radiators that are speced actually for slightly older 928s than my GTs. I am a bit skeptical about the side tanks of the OEM radiators. Those Radtech's look really good. Otherwise, keep up the good work!
Thanks, this radiator just fits in perfectly, no slight adjustments to make it fit and the drain plug is a 6mm hex pan head bolt in stainless steel which was a nice touch.
cheers
Phil
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By h2pmr
#207355
worf wrote:@h2pmr I’ll see if I can dig up the answer to your TEMP-I question. I don’t recall if it’s TC or NTC. I think it’s NTC. But, in the mean time, test the sender with a multimeter and a heat gun. I know that it’s a resistance circuit with one signal and one ground (unlike TEMP-II with two signal circuits that ground to the sender body.)
thanks Dave, luckily i have a spare new sensor to play with.

was more concerned about the auto box, if you guys said its usually not the seal its the splines that wear or the torque converter that would need rebuilding etc, i would have to consider if i was going any further with the project.
and roughly how long does it take you guy's to do the job?

but first need to get the temp gauge sorted - and as long as it has not leaked all the autobox oil out over the weekend- need to test drive it to see how the autobox itself performs, could easily be damaged i guess due to lack of oil and water contamination + anything else that could be wrong with it during the test drive.

Monday will be decision day, i don't mind the usual expenditure of getting an old 928 back on the road but don't fancy spending lots and find out i am :deadhorse:
cheers
Phil
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By h2pmr
#207572
started the old girl up this morning and them temp gauge was at the bottom, left it ticking over for about 40 mins and the temp gauge rose to half way and all was working fine.
took it for its maiden voyage with me and all was well with the gauge for the first few miles and then it went to max, but the red light for over heating did not come on.
when i got back and just left the ignition on the gauge was at max, unplugged sensor, still at max, unplug 14 pin connector and the gauge drops down.
so in theory i have a short to earth on the wire between the sensor and 14 pin connector, so i use a separate wire from the sensor to the 14 pin connector and the gauge still goes to max when i put the ignition on.
not out of frustration, there was a fly i was trying to swot.....when i hit the inst panel pod the gauge dropped down.
so i have an intermittent short in the wiring somewhere or an intermittent fault in the temp sensor which once it sends the gauge to max the gauge does not drop when the fault is gone :banghead:
fitted the new temp sensor and all was ok, just need to keep testing it to see if it fixes it.

ordered a seal for the g/box, torque converter only to be told they are on back order :banghead:
but not the end of the world as i can still drive it short distances as it does not leak when the car is not running and gives me time to do the little jobs on it, so can do the seal and metal fuel lines at the same time.

ABS light comes on just when driving and can feel the ABS trying to activate through the brake pedal at low speeds.
N/S/F sensor open circuit and both rear sensors going to earth..... :banghead:

fuel gauge was reading zero and the waning light was on, put £40 of super unleaded in and the gauge moved to 1/4 full, at least the fuel gauge works, but i forgot how thirsty these old girls are :banghead:

my head hurts, but more to follow.
cheers
Phil
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By h2pmr
#207726
P/S door -RHD- repairs today, the door panel has warped and the window is rubbing on it, so off with the panel and a hot air gun was used along the inside edge to bring it back to its correct shape, tie wraps with cardboard for protection to then hold it in place until its fully cold, new door check strap also fitted, the most ffing annoying thing when trying to work on a car and the door won't stay open, and anybody that has fitted them knows the new ones would not shut in a gale, they are very tight.

need to test the speakers as well then i have a grill and bought some aftermarket speaker rings to hold the grill in, + fit one of those arm rest repair bracket things, a good clean, put it all back together tomorrow + do the other side and there might be a very dim light at the end of the tunnel, but plenty more left to do.
cheers
Phil
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By worf
#207780
h2pmr wrote: Sat Mar 25, 2023 12:07 pm 1) autobox is now leaking out of torque converter housing :banghead: is it usually the seal pictured? picture of the actual seal from a recent RL thread.
I've done exactly one TQ bearing and seal replacement. The vast majority of 928s I see are 5-speeds. So, I can't opine on if it is common for the seal to leak.

What I find common is pan leakage due to warped pans from over-torquing.
h2pmr wrote: Sat Mar 25, 2023 12:07 pm what sort of a job is it to replace this seal?
If you do it by the book, you remove the rear suspension assembly, and the transaxle and torque tube as an assembly.

Then you remove the torque tube and disassemble the converter.

Colin has "pioneered" taking the TT assembly out without removing the rear suspension but it's a two-strong-man job if not three 'cause you have to manhandle the assembly out. That would save a lot of time.

h2pmr wrote: Sat Mar 25, 2023 12:07 pm roughly how long does it usually take to replace?,
When I did this job in 2016 it was roughly 32 hours but that included a lot of WYIT things.

h2pmr wrote: Sat Mar 25, 2023 12:07 pm anything else that would need to be replaced when i am doing this seal?
Torque tube was rebuilt with Constantine's bearings. Super-Clamp. All the hose sections and hose heat shield replaced. Pan gasket, filter kit. K1 Spring. Converter bearings. Reservoir seals.
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By h2pmr
#207856
thanks Dave, i think i will take the rear sub frame assembly out as i need to do the 2 long metal fuel pipes.
do you have the part numbers for the K1 spring and converter bearings?

2nd flush of the cooling system tomorrow + decided to fit a thermostat + its back seal.

i had to replace the drivers side door arm rest hinge as it did not pivot correctly and noticed the actual arm rest is slightly adjustable to align it with the rest of the trim, amazing attention to detail from Porsche back in the day.
more to follow
cheers
Phil
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By h2pmr
#208017
i thought a nice 20min job to fit new under bonnet sound proofing, 2 hours later i finally got all the glue off the bonnet from the old one :frown:
certainly looks far better now when you open the bonnet, but i won't be doing another one.
more to come
cheers
Phil
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By h2pmr
#208222
the bonnet release handle was broken and looking at it it still had the remnants of a Porsche sticker being on it, so was not that old and sure enough the cable had started to seize up, once the outer sheath is damaged and water gets in its only a matter of time until it starts to seize up and RHD versions have to run along the top of the rad and then turn 180 degrees back on itself to get to the bonnet catch.
new cable and handle and that's another job done.

when watching the engine warming up i noticed a click noise when the rad flaps opened and closed and sure enough the flaps were catching on the splitter.
removed the splitter and as in the pictures it was not straight along its top edge, a hot air gun was used to bend it back into position and while it was off a good time to rivet the trim around the flaps to the bumper.
refitted splitter and now flaps move freely and it just looks a lot tidier when looking through the grill.
i made some splitter mounts, 92850528902 out of sprung steel as approx £25 each from Porsche was not going to happen.

fitted a pair of exhaust test port pipes once i had removed the welded in "plug" in the exhaust manifold, yes i know they are pointless, but you see them as soon as you open the bonnet and in my eyes if they are there it looks like the car has been looked after.
bumper bracket fitted for the front number plate and ABS sensor fitted and another day draws to a close.
getting there, slowly
cheers
Phil
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By h2pmr
#208285
new speaker grill rings fitted and door panels all back together, jump post cover on and bonnet light working, finished.
well er not quite, just found a small hole of rust in the inner sill, which turned bigger the more i gently pushed with my thumb :banghead:
so sill to weld up, gearbox out to fix oil leak, metal fuel lines to fit + many other small jobs, all of which should be getting done around June time.
until then happy 928 motoring to all
cheers
Phil
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By h2pmr
#212694
this weekends job, to get a Volvo 850 heater motor to fit in this RHD 928, as per a thread on RL

and what is the latest thinking on the resistor pack? as this one has been hot enough to start to melt the plastic ducting it sits in.
does not help when the motor is seized and someone has just joined wires together on the resistor pack :banghead:
cheers
Phil
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By worf
#212726
h2pmr wrote: Thu Apr 27, 2023 3:20 pm … and what is the latest thinking on the resistor pack?
I’ve been following the resistor pack saga. I don’t have a ‘best practice’ at this point. Seems like they can be cleaned/refurbished as long as the resistor wires are still pretty ok?
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By h2pmr
#221790
patch tacked in position ready for final weld up by our body shop :thumbup:
torque converter seal + long metal fuel pipes this weeks jobs :frown:

i will post pictures as i go but if anybody wants any specific pictures of the removal of the above, or what it looks like when they are removed let me know and i will and take some.

cheers
Phil
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By h2pmr
#222075
above patch now fully welded and our body shop made and welded in a nice repair panel :thumbup:
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no more putting off removing the gearbox etc, not a bad job, just the corrosion of the components that need to be removed that is a pain to do, handbrake cable removal from the tube going into the car being the hardest, but gentle heat and patience worked and nothing broke which is a bonus

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torque tube off and seal out, so pretty much half way

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and in with the new

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was about to refit the torque tube but found the rear bearings noisy :banghead:
90005212200 anybody know the spec of them to get some generic ones??, or Porsche only ?

but an ideal time to fit both rear ABS sensors, fffing corrosion :banghead:
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and also an ideal time to replace the 2 long metal fuel pipes due to the usual corrosion....
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more to follow
cheers
Phil
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By worf
#222109
h2pmr wrote: Sun Jun 25, 2023 3:32 am
… and also an ideal time to replace the 2 long metal fuel pipes due to the usual corrosion....
I don’t know if you know, but at least some, maybe all, of the metal fuel lines are available from PAG and surprisingly not spendy.
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By h2pmr
#222286
worf wrote:
h2pmr wrote: Sun Jun 25, 2023 3:32 am
… and also an ideal time to replace the 2 long metal fuel pipes due to the usual corrosion....
I don’t know if you know, but at least some, maybe all, of the metal fuel lines are available from PAG and surprisingly not spendy.
who are PAG ?
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By worf
#222287
h2pmr wrote: Mon Jun 26, 2023 1:33 pm
worf wrote: I don’t know if you know, but at least some, maybe all, of the metal fuel lines are available from PAG and surprisingly not spendy.
who are PAG ?
Porsche A.G.
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By h2pmr
#222291
worf wrote:
h2pmr wrote: Mon Jun 26, 2023 1:33 pm
worf wrote: I don’t know if you know, but at least some, maybe all, of the metal fuel lines are available from PAG and surprisingly not spendy.
who are PAG ?
Porsche A.G.
Ah yes, the 2 main long ones are not badly priced for being preformed, pictures of them fitted tomorrow, but the short one in the rear wheel arch 92835605700 is taking the xxxx on price.

just a case of putting it all back on....
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By h2pmr
#222596
was to busy doing to take any pictures today, just the genuine fuel pipes loosely fitted, but its now 95% all back together, just need the exhaust on, but still need to fit a fuel pressure regulator as its ffing putting fuel down the vac line :banghead:
and now noticed water leak from where coolant bridge fits into the block :banghead:

need to get it up and running first to make sure the gearbox oil leak is fixed, as if not, or i find anything else major wrong with it, its :surrender: and its getting parted out, or drain the cooling system fully and park it up for a few years and see which way values go
i should know which way its going by the weekend.
cheers
Phil
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By h2pmr
#222717
stated the old girl this morning and the pipe in the rear wheel arch fractured and petrol spraying every where :bigcry: ....
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By h2pmr
#222755
first try and its a pretty good fit, just need to paint the pipe black so it looks less like a bathroom fitting.
now fully up and running, but test drive tomorrow morning.
cheers
Phil
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By worf
#222787
Cunifer?

What did you use to make the bubble flare? (I ask ‘cause my hydraulic flaring tool isn’t strong enough for fuel-line-size Cunifer.)
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By h2pmr
#222865
worf wrote:Cunifer?

What did you use to make the bubble flare? (I ask ‘cause my hydraulic flaring tool isn’t strong enough for fuel-line-size Cunifer.)
no just standard 10mm copper pipe, i just need to test drive it to see how the gearbox is and see if anything else needs doing,
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By worf
#222868
h2pmr wrote: Fri Jun 30, 2023 12:07 am
worf wrote:Cunifer?

What did you use to make the bubble flare? (I ask ‘cause my hydraulic flaring tool isn’t strong enough for fuel-line-size Cunifer.)
no just standard 10mm copper pipe, i just need to test drive it to see how the gearbox is and see if anything else needs doing,
Even stronger than Cunifer. So, question stands: What did you use to make the bubble flare?
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By h2pmr
#222894
i just used a pipe flaring tool to make the flare, but had the pipe 2mm'ish higher in the clamp, so it made a wider flare then test fully tightened it into a spare join 477209169 and it formed itself.
i would not like to remove/refit the pipe to many times, but it is just to get it mobile and test drive it.

done 20 miles in it and so far so happy.
1) no more autobox oil leak :jumper: :jumper: :jumper:
2) all instrument warning lights and gauges working just as they should, since i overhauled the instrument panel in the other thread.
no warning lights on and even the temp gauge is working perfectly..
before i did the instrument panel i always had the red "!" warning light on but no other warning, but since i replaced all the bulbs the brake pad warning light was on the instrument panel, so a test join of each corner found the drivers side front sensor open circuit, so a nice easy fix.
3) definitely a quieter drive with the new bearings in the rear flex plate assembly.

so feeling more happy with 928 ownership again

and hopefully getting an MOT this weekend :jumper:
hopefully anyway.

cheers
Phil
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By tungsten
#222911
Do you have a picture of the clock as it was installed? I had heard that Ford clock was adaptable, and I picked one up for cheap on ebay once, but it's been sitting on the shelf since. Just curious how it looked, in place.
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By h2pmr
#222952
tungsten wrote:Do you have a picture of the clock as it was installed? I had heard that Ford clock was adaptable, and I picked one up for cheap on ebay once, but it's been sitting on the shelf since. Just curious how it looked, in place.
when i bought it, it had a none standard analogue clock in it, the clock surround had been modified so it would fit, the one on the left, the one on the right is how it should be.
cheers
Phil
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By h2pmr
#223029
just fitted a new switch for the lumber support in the seat which is now working well, i guess the large printed circuit board is the seat mirror memory ecu?
should it have a cover over it, or is that how Porsche made it?
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need to fully clean the seat and respray the seat piping, i did it on the SE, just takes a lot of masking up and prep work, but worth it, as it looks like the previous owner started to use tippex, badly :nono:

and no actual cracks or splitting of the bolster part, so should come up nicely, as always, fingers crossed
cheers
Phil
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By worf
#223090
h2pmr wrote: Sat Jul 01, 2023 8:16 am … i guess the large printed circuit board is the seat mirror memory ecu?
should it have a cover over it, or is that how Porsche made it?
Yeah, naw. It is *not* supposed to have its solder balls hanging out in the breeze like that.

It is *part* of the seat memory system. The p-side seat may have one and there’s another ECU adjacent to the ABS ECU for the mirrors.

Yes, there is a plastic housing for that board.
User avatar
By h2pmr
#223131
thanks Dave, i will fabricate something to cover it up.
cheers
Phil
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By h2pmr
#224236
finally got around to wiring the standard radio amp in.
it was all still there, just needed the speaker wires joining back together in the A posts and just needed plugging back into the rear speakers, a radio fitter had just run wires from the rear speakers to the head unit and a new 8 pin DIN cable as that had just been cut off.

wired in a standard ISO power supply to the car so should ne no more cutting of wires for any radio the next owner wants to fit.
getting a modern radio with the 8 pin DIN socket is not so easy, so it was nice to find you can get an adaptor lead from 8pin DIN to 4 line outs, as long as the radio you want has 4 line out sockets on the back.

sourced a digital clock and its surround trim and then spent the next hour cleaning the P/S front seat, which came up pretty well.
and it now has an MOT so its ready for the road :thumbup: :thumbup:
its getting there slowly
cheers
Phil
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By h2pmr
#226555
flashing red LED wired to flash with ignition off so looks like its got an alarm now.

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took the drivers seat back out, removed the seat ecu - as of a couple of posts back- and gave all the connectors a good clean with electric cleaner and fabricated a cover for it.
with the seat out i had no excuse not to spend a couple of hours masking it up to spray the seat piping, not the best job in the world to do but needs doing


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looking closely at the piping i could see the seat must have been recoloured/sprayed at some point as what i thought was dirt and grime was actually blue leather overspray.


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first coat is now on, when it came from the factory the piping would have been a bright white but as i am only doing the drivers side front seat, i have gone with an ivory spray, which should be closer to the other seat piping which have just faded over the years.
need to put a couple more coats on tomorrow, then see what it looks like, will post a picture of it, good or bad.


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cheers
Phil
User avatar
By h2pmr
#227300
i applied a second coat and left it overnight to dry, then started to remove the masking tape and at first thought it was residue adhesive from the masking tape, but its the spay paint :bigcry:
either i did not put enough masking tape on, or what i did, did not stick well enough or i just used to much spray, or a combination of all 3.
but this one is marked down as a cock-up by me.

on the plus side the actual piping is not a bad colour match to the other seats, its not actually as bright a white as the pictures show and the paint adhesion to the piping is excellent.

had a brief thought about doing all the seats and then passing it off as an exclusive option from Porsche called "random marble effect leather " but that soon passed

have tried paint thinners, brake cleaner, even petrol on a small section of the leather that cannot be seen when the seat is in and its just not coming off.

so getting some dark blue leather touch up and see if i can make it look slightly better next weekend.
at least i cannot make it look any worse :bigcry:
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By Gary Knox
#227316
As one of our USA ex-presidents frequently stated: "I feel your pain".

But, his big problem was a blue dress, not blue seats. I hope your problem is easier to resolve than his was!!

Good Luck, and thanks for continuing to keep us in the loop.

Gary
User avatar
By Bertrand Daoust
#227385
You can also try lacquer thinner.
But this will remove the blue dye also fron the leather.
Not a big problem as you will need to re-touch it anyway.
I would also sand the leather with a 400 sandpaper before re-dying. Use a rag to re-dye doing small section at a time. And use a very small artist brush to dye near the piping.
If it blends well (new blue dye vs old blue dye), great. If not, you will need to re-dye the whole seat.
Good luck.
User avatar
By Gary Knox
#227418
I use MEK (lacquer thinner) to clean the leather on seats before I do any softening or color refurbishment (or change in color). MEK only removes the 'dead' paint that is on the surface (all 928 leather is painted). IF the white you used is lacquer, it should come off easily with either MEK or Acetone. IF it is acrylic, it probably won't. Mineral spirits might work if it hasn't cured for too long.
Check this link for 'art suppliers' recommendations: https://artsuppliesaustralia.com.au/blo ... ylic-paint

Good luck - so disappointing after all the work you did to mask off everything.

Gary
User avatar
By h2pmr
#227451
thanks for the suggestions gents , i will give them a go, but i fear the blue is a lot easier to remove than the white, i will post pictures of the progress, but will be in a weeks time, bloody day job getting in the way...
cheers
Phil

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