8 cylinder front engine iconic vehicle
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By h2pmr
#175984
the orange one i rebuilt to look and go how i wanted my ideal 928 to be
the SE was restored to a just as Porsche built it ideal
this 1987 S4 auto restoration is going to be more a general "daily driver" restoration, original where it needs to be, aftermarket where it doesn't and repaired where it can be.
see the "#3 restore, part, keep or sell" thread for the initial start of this thread.

Any major restoration/ rebuild SHOULD start with the paintwork, but as this is not a full on restoration as my other 2, the paintwork will keep for a while.

so up on a 2 post lift on Saturday removed all the wheel arch liners and set to cleaning all the crap out and careful checking for excess corrosion, and apart from surface corrosion the old girl is very solid, a "while your there" job is cover all metal parts with wax oil, to try to halt the surface corrosion from getting any worse over the coming years
then a careful check of all visible components and with large note pad make a list of what needs urgent repair or replacement.
that alone took about 6 hours, time flies when having fun.

taking the fuel tank cradle as example of this restoration:
my orange one got a new stainless steel one fitted.
my SE got a new genuine one fitted
this S4's is a little rusty but still solid, so has just been waxoiled and of the 2x M6 mounts for the fuel filter metal cover, one had snapped and the other the threads had rusted away so badly that i was able to rethread it to an M5 and fully tighten a nut back on and just fitted a small clamp to hold the side that the mount had snapped, see pictures

so, needs doing urgent:
metal fuel lines-tank to engine bay, very very rusty around the rear wheel arch area, as usual.
S shaped power steering hose- reservoir to pump leaking
power steering pump belt needs tightening.
yes i know there should be way more pictures but i was having fun

was expecting more, so far so happy.....
more to follow
Phil
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By worf
#176072
Good luck and keep up the good work.

Given your climate - a continuous salt bath - it’s no surprise that one learns how to deal with corrosion.
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By h2pmr
#176099
before putting the front splash shields back on was a good time to correctly secure the front splitter, very satisfying to remove/cut off due to rust the various bolts and screws fitted randomly and fit the correct screws and spira clips etc to make it a snug fit again to the painted bodywork.

taking the horn pictured as a final analogy of how this rebuild will go:
the orange one got them both removed, mounting point cut in half and a generic light weight horn fitted.
the SE got a pair of new genuine ones.
this S4's high tone still works ok - the one pictured mountings point on the body had broken off and it was just lying on the inside of the splitter and had seen better days.
so just welded the mount back onto the body, but will leave just the one working horn on, no real need for 2 horns.

so next job was the interior, starting at the rear, so as not to overwhelm yourself, check and assess what needs repairing and what needs replacing and writing it all down, very much a subjective thing but if its fitted it needs to work, might look old and a little tired but it must work.

again overall not bad condition with the usual faults:
speaker rings cracked.
P/S door panel starting to lift as if its to tight against the window glass
door check straps not holding open which is a real pain.
clock was none standard, and as its something seen all the time, needs to be a standard digital version.
heater motor did not work on any speed, i have a very poor sense of smell but i could see the slight wisp of smoke coming from under the bonnet, so i guess its seized up.
dash and pod has slight cracking but not bad so will leave that for now.

next onto the wiring itself:
another satisfying job i find is removing the 35 years worth of alarms, immobilizers after market radios etc - see pictures- and correctly putting it all back to standard, even got some correct wiring loom tape to make it look factory fresh'ish.
and remembering to remove, clean and retighten earth points and the bolted 12v feeds on top of the fuse panel.
carpets stuck back down with spray glue and a good clean and vacuum, all correct nuts bolts and screws used, so when i need to remove anything i know its just as it should be with no surprises..

thats the interior and underneath checked with lists made of all the parts to order, which will all be getting fitted, repaired next spring/ summer.

that just leaves the heart of the beast...
more to follow
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By h2pmr
#176345
its now Tuesday and do the easy jobs first, change brake fluid and diff oil, then change the auto box oil, filter and drain the torque converter, no history of them having been done so do it now so no nasty suprises for next year.
got the filter and pan gasket from a local motor factors, filter right, pan gasket wrong -i guess its for a Merc pan- but the oil looked more pink than red...
luckily local OPC could get a right one for the next day.

onto the engine, tried to tighten the power steering pump but the adjuster bolt would only turn half a turn either way and then get jammed, so off with the pump, and an ideal time to fit the leaking steering hose, and found the adjuster bolt bent and jammed between pump and the mounting, i guess someone did not see the 3rd bolt needs loosening to adjust the pump.
bolt pictured below finally removed, mounting cleaned and fitted back in now found one mounting bolt in the block and the top two mountings in the pump have stripped threads, but i still have plenty of helicoils from when rebuilding the other two 928's.

while waiting for the auto box gasket i would drain the coolant, oh somebody has put red coolant in i thought as it came out, then as it finished dripped out i realized that's red oil dripping out, can just see the red in the coolant bridge pictured ... :hitfan:
so that's where the auto box oil had gone, so removed the radiator.
a radiator from local OPC was not on the cards at £2kand nobody i could find could do the auto box cooler side of the radiator :bigcry:
but have just ordered one from Radtec here in the UK which is a better price of £500 for a new one.

with the radiator removed, do i just put a cambelt and water pump on, rebuild it and drive it next year or remove engine do the head gaskets and hoses all at the same time, which then leads onto an intake hose refresh etc.
need to think about that for a while first.
only good news was looking back in the sketchy history was the A/C was refreshed 2years ago so SHOULD be not to much trouble to get it working again.

so that's the old girl fully checked over with a long, or very long list of parts needed, depending on what i decide to do with the engine.
load it on a trailer and take to our Carlisle branch where it can be stored in a warm and dry garage, give the body work a good clean and put it under a dust cover until spring/summer next year when the actual rebuild/restore begins in earnest.

The cover is a genuine one from Porsche, which was cheaper than the ones i got for my other 928's , the Porsche crest on it looks 3D with the way the shading is printed behind it.

so its all safe and sound in storage and its now time for a warm :drink: and a think.
yes i will take more/better pictures next year :thumbup:
cheers
Phil
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By h2pmr
#180946
new radtec radiator arrived yesterday :thumbup: a thing of beauty and English craftsmanship :jumper:
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By Benno
#181087
Interesting, I was not aware of the Radtec Radiator (https://www.radtec.co.uk/shop/makes/por ... il-cooler/) their website says its capacity is increased by 30%. I would assume they either added another core or increased the the size of the cores.

I wonder how this Radtec compares to the CSF radiator (https://csfrace.com/world-exclusive-hig ... 28-models/) commonly sold in North America. CSF claims their B-tube technology is 15% more efficient, no mention of increased cooling capacity over stock.
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