- Sun Nov 28, 2021 5:57 pm
Here you go.
The important part about taking out the clutch is to have the 3 spacers for the PPlate,
This makes it easy to remove the arm from the ball,
And remove the TOB finger plate spring clip.
NOTE just be careful that when you pry the release arm back you dont press on the PP spring fingers these are easily snapped off.
So this is how I do things,
since I have done it more than a few times its pretty easy.
Disconnect the battery,
Disconnect the O2 sensor wires and push them through the chassis. so you dont shear them off if the header pipes should drop.
Remove the pass parcel tray and the computers next to the CE panel. mark the connectors.
Mark and remove the hood I leave the hinges in the car
Remove the air cleaner housing and the engine cross brace.
Drain the radiator, remove the HCV hose clamp and Rad hoses and fan/s and remove the radiator.
Place a thick piece of cardboard over the AC condenser
Disconnect the fuel lines at the front and back of the engine.
Plug the lines, loosen the gas cap 1 turn.
Loosen the P/S tank clip,leave the tank in position for now,
Remove the ABS screw and release the wire thats connected to the engine.
Disconnect any vacuum lines and vent hoses ,
make sure you mark them use blue tape and a marker.
NOTE take pictures before you take anything apart.
With a long 19 MM Mountain wrench break the 2 top bell housing bolts and remove them
Jack up the car,
Remove the belly pan/s
Drain the oil and filter , and the remainder of the coolant from the block.
Remove the exhaust system as a whole piece, verify the O2 sensor wires are free of the chassis, a helper or screw jack stand is handy here.
Remove the 2 bolts that anchor the lower trans mounts to the rear cross member,
Verify the E brake handle is off and the cable housing is loose so it wont be damaged when you slide the transaxle back.
Remove the starter, mark wires and separate them,
Remove the sway bar. mark the lower links to the bar
Remove the slave cylinder, tie it out of the way.
NOTE now is a good time to order a Greg Brown flex line for the slave.
Remove the 4 Motor Mount anchor bolts per side.
Cut any zip ties and remove the 2 harness clamps from the cross member.
NOTE the one on top of the cross member is a bit tough.
Remove the bell housing lower. bag the bolts.
NOTE you can usually remove the crank bolt with an impact gun, so this can be done after the clutch is removed to facilitate turning the crank.
NOTE if no gun then wait to fit the flywheel lock and remove the crank bolt till after the clutch is dropped and the bell housing is slid back into place.
Get a can of white or red spray paint and spray a line front to back on the flywheel to pressure plate, this makes it easy when its time to install it.
Remove the fan belts mark them for direction and location.
Remove the anchor bolts for the AC compressor use mechanics wire to tie it to the frame rail dont disconnect the lines. its gonna stay here.
and the remove the airpump
Remove the alternator, set it aside for tear down inspection of the brushes/regulator, make sure this is done so alternator issues wont manifest.
Remove the P/S cassette from the block and pump and tie off the P/S pump.
Use a long prybar to release the clutch, pry on the PP housing not the fingers or they will snap, use a flashlight to verify what your doing.
Turn the driveshaft to show the pinch bolts, use a good tool to remove both the pinch bolts from the stub clamp.
Slide the drive shaft clamp back till it is free of the stub shaft and on the driveshaft,
Push the stub into the pilot bearing so it will hold the discs while your loosening the PP bolts.
Get some contact cement and put it on the PP spacers, install the spacer turn the crank and do the other 2, the glue helps hold the spacer when you pry the release arm.
Loosen/ remove the first 4of 6 bolts that anchor the PP, turn the crank with the crank bolt. leave 2 loose at the bottom to hold the clutch in.
Remove the arm from the ball
Loosen till 3 turns left the 2 lower bell housing bolts.
Go to the trans axle, gently pry the housing to the rear of the car, it will slide back on the bolts, dont crush the E brake cable.
Remove the 2 bolts for the guide collar for the release arm, fit a small block of wood under the TT so it wont drop.
Remove the last two PP bolts.
Slide the stub shaft out of the pilot bearing and with gloved hands drop the clutch assembly out of the car. use a screwdriver to pry it free of the pins.
NOTE with the bell housing moved back the pins will not need to be hammered ,
and there should be enough room for the clutch pack to come free.
Remove the 2 bell housing bolts rest the TT on the wood block,
NOTE at this point, the engine can fall out of the car BUT it will stay in place.
Lower the car and put a safety wire to the engine so it wont move forward.
In the pass foot well feed the smallest engine harness wires through the opening first. a helper thats pulling them from the engine bay is good.
Feed the biggest connector last through the firewall
NOTE reverse this operation for assembly.
Connect the chains to the lifting hooks.
Remove the P/S tank clamp and let the tank fall down out of the way put a bag on it so it catches any leaks
Lift the engine with the hoist upwards about 6 inches then start to move the engine forwards,
Watching for any other parts that might hit, and guiding the wire harness out of the firewall
NOTE be careful you dont hit the AC condenser