8 cylinder front engine iconic vehicle
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By WyattsRide
#118902
By using the WS manual's step by step instructions, I'm getting close to being able to pull my engine. I still have a few questions.

1. Do I have to drop the clutch? If so, why? - In my research, I can't seem to find a definite answer to this.

2. I think I have a good idea on how to remove the clutch. (I've never done this before) But, a good visual instruction would be better in helping me understand. Any good links to this or some personal pics with instructions?

3. I removed the Starter. But the bracket that the Starter is attached to, is still there. When the clutch is dropped, can this bracket then be removed? Does it even need removed?

Any other hints and advice would be appreciated. I've procrastinated on this long enough. I need to get busy!
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By Mrmerlin
#118986
Here you go.

The important part about taking out the clutch is to have the 3 spacers for the PPlate,
This makes it easy to remove the arm from the ball,
And remove the TOB finger plate spring clip.

NOTE just be careful that when you pry the release arm back you dont press on the PP spring fingers these are easily snapped off.

So this is how I do things,
since I have done it more than a few times its pretty easy.

Disconnect the battery,

Disconnect the O2 sensor wires and push them through the chassis. so you dont shear them off if the header pipes should drop.

Remove the pass parcel tray and the computers next to the CE panel. mark the connectors.

Mark and remove the hood I leave the hinges in the car

Remove the air cleaner housing and the engine cross brace.

Drain the radiator, remove the HCV hose clamp and Rad hoses and fan/s and remove the radiator.

Place a thick piece of cardboard over the AC condenser

Disconnect the fuel lines at the front and back of the engine.

Plug the lines, loosen the gas cap 1 turn.

Loosen the P/S tank clip,leave the tank in position for now,

Remove the ABS screw and release the wire thats connected to the engine.

Disconnect any vacuum lines and vent hoses ,
make sure you mark them use blue tape and a marker.
NOTE take pictures before you take anything apart.

With a long 19 MM Mountain wrench break the 2 top bell housing bolts and remove them

Jack up the car,

Remove the belly pan/s

Drain the oil and filter , and the remainder of the coolant from the block.

Remove the exhaust system as a whole piece, verify the O2 sensor wires are free of the chassis, a helper or screw jack stand is handy here.

Remove the 2 bolts that anchor the lower trans mounts to the rear cross member,

Verify the E brake handle is off and the cable housing is loose so it wont be damaged when you slide the transaxle back.

Remove the starter, mark wires and separate them,

Remove the sway bar. mark the lower links to the bar

Remove the slave cylinder, tie it out of the way.
NOTE now is a good time to order a Greg Brown flex line for the slave.

Remove the 4 Motor Mount anchor bolts per side.
Cut any zip ties and remove the 2 harness clamps from the cross member.
NOTE the one on top of the cross member is a bit tough.

Remove the bell housing lower. bag the bolts.
NOTE you can usually remove the crank bolt with an impact gun, so this can be done after the clutch is removed to facilitate turning the crank.
NOTE if no gun then wait to fit the flywheel lock and remove the crank bolt till after the clutch is dropped and the bell housing is slid back into place.

Get a can of white or red spray paint and spray a line front to back on the flywheel to pressure plate, this makes it easy when its time to install it.

Remove the fan belts mark them for direction and location.

Remove the anchor bolts for the AC compressor use mechanics wire to tie it to the frame rail dont disconnect the lines. its gonna stay here.
and the remove the airpump

Remove the alternator, set it aside for tear down inspection of the brushes/regulator, make sure this is done so alternator issues wont manifest.

Remove the P/S cassette from the block and pump and tie off the P/S pump.

Use a long prybar to release the clutch, pry on the PP housing not the fingers or they will snap, use a flashlight to verify what your doing.

Turn the driveshaft to show the pinch bolts, use a good tool to remove both the pinch bolts from the stub clamp.

Slide the drive shaft clamp back till it is free of the stub shaft and on the driveshaft,

Push the stub into the pilot bearing so it will hold the discs while your loosening the PP bolts.

Get some contact cement and put it on the PP spacers, install the spacer turn the crank and do the other 2, the glue helps hold the spacer when you pry the release arm.

Loosen/ remove the first 4of 6 bolts that anchor the PP, turn the crank with the crank bolt. leave 2 loose at the bottom to hold the clutch in.

Remove the arm from the ball

Loosen till 3 turns left the 2 lower bell housing bolts.

Go to the trans axle, gently pry the housing to the rear of the car, it will slide back on the bolts, dont crush the E brake cable.

Remove the 2 bolts for the guide collar for the release arm, fit a small block of wood under the TT so it wont drop.

Remove the last two PP bolts.

Slide the stub shaft out of the pilot bearing and with gloved hands drop the clutch assembly out of the car. use a screwdriver to pry it free of the pins.

NOTE with the bell housing moved back the pins will not need to be hammered ,
and there should be enough room for the clutch pack to come free.

Remove the 2 bell housing bolts rest the TT on the wood block,
NOTE at this point, the engine can fall out of the car BUT it will stay in place.

Lower the car and put a safety wire to the engine so it wont move forward.

In the pass foot well feed the smallest engine harness wires through the opening first. a helper thats pulling them from the engine bay is good.

Feed the biggest connector last through the firewall
NOTE reverse this operation for assembly.

Connect the chains to the lifting hooks.

Remove the P/S tank clamp and let the tank fall down out of the way put a bag on it so it catches any leaks

Lift the engine with the hoist upwards about 6 inches then start to move the engine forwards,

Watching for any other parts that might hit, and guiding the wire harness out of the firewall

NOTE be careful you dont hit the AC condenser
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By worf
#118992
WyattsRide wrote: Sun Nov 28, 2021 8:33 am 1. Do I have to drop the clutch? If so, why? - In my research, I can't seem to find a definite answer to this.
I would recommend that you do. Why? This is your first time pulling the 928 engine right? It's "interesting" enough the first time without adding the complication of the clutch pack.

Whether or not you *have* to remove the clutch depends upon your engine hoist and load leveler. If you have a hoist that's "just big enough" and your are using just the two factory engine lift loops you will not have enough lift and tilt range to get the engine out with the clutch attached. The "just big enough" hoist will begin to move the motor forward before you've gotten a lot of lift. To get the engine out with the clutch attached you need to be able to tilt the engine to (about, guessing) 30 degrees and then lift and move out at a 45 degree angle. The required tilt angle will use up most of your "straight up" lift range.

WyattsRide wrote: Sun Nov 28, 2021 8:33 am Any other hints and advice would be appreciated. I've procrastinated on this long enough. I need to get busy!
The WSM has you leaving the engine mounts and mount brackets on the engine carrier when you remove the engine. This is one of the reasons you need a lot of lift and tilt range.

If you unbolt the engine mounts from the engine support and take the mounts and their brackets out with the engine then you don't need as much range on the hoist.

On the 85, unless you are using the factory's 'three-finger' lift bracket the engine is going to 'drop a corner' and rotate on the way out. You'll need at least 2 if not 3 people to get it out. 1 to operate the lift and 2 to steady the engine. Or one person 'steadying' the motor that's BTDT.

WyattsRide wrote: Sun Nov 28, 2021 8:33 am 2. I think I have a good idea on how to remove the clutch. (I've never done this before) But, a good visual instruction would be better in helping me understand. Any good links to this or some personal pics with instructions?
Stan's got a good list above.

WyattsRide wrote: Sun Nov 28, 2021 8:33 am 3. I removed the Starter. But the bracket that the Starter is attached to, is still there. When the clutch is dropped, can this bracket then be removed? Does it even need removed?
The starter bracket doesn't need to get removed unless you want to really clean it and that part of the motor.

However, note that you do not want to rest the engine on that bracket. So, plan through how you will get the motor from the lift to your engine stand.

I generally remove the starter bracket and thoroughly clean the back of the engine before I transfer it to the engine stand since once it's on the stand you can't 'get in there.'

The hardest part of the removal is getting the LH harness through the firewall hole. This is where two people are handy. One to push and one to (very gently) pull.
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By worf
#121057
Crumpler wrote: Tue Dec 07, 2021 9:32 pm Great thread.
I just printed walk through. Thank you Stan and Dave.
Good luck.

I’ll leave this here for you :)

Image
Crumpler liked this
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