8 cylinder front engine iconic vehicle
  • User avatar
  • User avatar
  • User avatar
By Crumpler
#45849
Hey guys, looking for opinions. Shifted and I were talking about this and I think we were both leaning towards not replacing current WP, but it’s a grey area.

I will be changing the harmonic, and to do that on this car I have to pull the radiator each time because of the longer supercharger crank pulley. Which makes any deferred maintenance a pain in the ass.

The current pump is a Laso plastic impeller, put on in 2014. It has about 17k miles on it. No concerns with it currently.

The timing belt isn’t really an issue, it’s less then 18 months old.

What’s holding me back is that I really hate torquing into that block more then I have to. There’s one pump bolt in a helicoil already.
By SeanR
#45858
I usually go two belt jobs per pump on my own car and leave it up to the customer if they want it changed at the advised interval. When I dig in to a TB/WP job I'll feel for any axial play on the pump pully and if I feel any it is going to get changed. If none, I'll generally leave it telling the customer I feel it is fine but if it fails the following week I'll have to do the job again. Up to them. I've had zero failures of the Laso plastic impeller pumps. Unless the owner wants a Porsche pump (of which I've had to change two after a few years due to leaking) Laso is the only one I'll use.
By worf
#45918
Crumpler wrote: Wed Dec 30, 2020 9:57 am Hey guys, looking for opinions.
Since the Great Rebuilt Pump Massacre of the 2006-2010 period I’ve not installed anything other than new plastic Lasos, new Porsche-boxed (rare that) and Guardians. Of those that have come up for the ‘next’ belt, none IIRC, have gotten a pump R&R. They don’t get a lot of miles per year these Yankee 928s

I suppose that if one came in with 30k-miles on the pump I’d probably recommend changing it.

It’s all about the context. When I get a 928 for the first time rarely is there full context. There might be a line in an N-year old service record for “coolant pump” for anywhere between $200 to $2000 but that doesn’t tell me what it is. So, off it goes. When it comes back M years later, my invoices remind me what the pump was, and a decision can be made after the pump has been exposed and fondled but not removed.
By Crumpler
#45931
Ok, that helps me quite a bit to hear what our pro’s think about it.
Thank you Sean and Dave.

I will check for play and probably not go down the rabbit hole if it feels ok. Knowing if I don’t replace it I run a certain smaller risk that it could fail later.

I will call Roger anyway and get a pump to have on hand.
By worf
#45940
I also check for migration of the bearing cartridge. If the belt is tracking on the leading edge of wp pulley, then check rear lip of pulley. If any part of the weep hole is occluded by the trailing edge of the pulley then impeller is touching block.

Yes, plastic, but once impeller is 2-3mm ‘thinner’ pumping efficiency begins to go away.
By Crumpler
#45971
Got it, I will post pics, good tip.


Wow, Roger must be caffeinated lol .
WP shipped in two hours!:)
Honda ACTY (Kei Truck)

I replaced the coil and condensor - no change. We[…]

Rear End Refresh

That’s looking good. You’re going to need new rubb[…]

The 928 Photo Thread

Typical car from Scotland all the salt they put on[…]

New second gen brackets are available for the 89+ […]