Aircooled 911s
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By jacke2c
#2179
A place for aircooled 964 owners to share their expertise...
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By amdavid
#3646
Someday again. Had a 91 Amazon Green C2 for a few years.
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By Marine Blue
#8184
Hopefully see some more activity here....
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By Rocket Rob
#9984
Me too.
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By JRMaroon
#11969
Not a 964 expert but will share the results of a lower valve cover replacement in the next few weeks.

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By sundog
#19245
I'm happy to answer any technical questions that come up. I've done a ton of rework on my 1991 Carrera 2, rebuilt engine, suspension, exhaust, many electrical things, and a ton of weird issues.
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By fpena944
#19254
Had a chance to buy a 1991 C2 for $17k back in 2008. Ended up with my 996 a year later but that 964 brought a smile to my face that no other vehicle has done since.
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By Rocket Rob
#22345
C4 vibration at 60mph - torque tube bearings?

I have vibration at 60mph. You can feel it at 40 and up to 90 but its worse at 60mph. I have tried two sets of wheels/tires without change. I have new axles and wheel bearings, shocks and shock mounts. New trans mount and the vibration remains. I have swapped my wheels/tires from my other car and the vibration remains and does not move to the other car. I'm running out of ideas on what else it could be.

Very frustrating. Wondering if the bearings in the torque tube are worn??? Has anyone had to change them? If so, what is involved in doing so?

Car is a 1990 964 C4 cab
Mileage = 262K

Thanks in advance
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By jacke2c
#147563
Although I sold my house with a shop and a two post lift two years ago, I figured it was time to continue with the upgrades on restoring my junk yard Porsche to its former glory. I had bought a used bumper cover from Autobahn1 about 4-5 years ago that had the Tech-Art fog lights and brake ducts. Apparently the original bumper had been damaged slightly and was filled with bondo, and then bumped again cracking it... It was that way when I bought it... apparently it had been driven fairly hard at one time. Its amazing how time consuming it is to do something as simple as a bumper cover when you don't have your lift and you have to crawl around on the floor to get to all the screws at a youthful 64 years old.

BEFORE:
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AFTER
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By jacke2c
#172014
You know, 32 year old cars get tired and just drip 9on your floors... so I did something about it....

I have always had to put down cardboard to catch the engine drips and the front radiator drips on my 1990 Carrera. So I looked into what others had done and decided to bite the bullet and replace all my leaky lines where the oil hoses had deteriorated over the last couple of decades. The 1st thing I needed was a good crimper. A Cohline crimper, if you can find one, is about $14-1600 dollars. I looked for months to find a used one on -bay, but have had no luck scoring a used one. I know elephant racing uses a Parker crimper... but they are for the low-volume average guy cost prohibitive. I found an Eastman Electro-Hydraulic crimper and was told it would work... it did, but leaked more on the floor than it put through the pressure lines and one of the cylinders leaked. I rebuilt it over a two month period and it works as new with new cylinders and a new reservoir.

The one thing about using this crimper is that it has specs for every hose and crimp diameter. You set the press to the desired diameter and press to that point and you get a perfect crimp.... well after 6-8 practice crimps to see what happened if you over or under crimped a fitting. If you go to measures over, you collapse the pipe internally. If you go two setting slack, you can still turn the pipe fitting in the hose.... (I practiced on some identical diameter copper tubing from a hardware / supply shop.)

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Now that I had the tool, I sourced original Cohline fittings from England and they were delivered in 3 days. Wonders never cease.

I stripped the old lines out, and replaced the lines one at a time using the crimper.

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There is a certain amount of butt pucker tension since one screw-up and all the effort would have been cost prohibitively expensive to fix.

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Lines installed at front radiator where they had been leaking. The old lines were so brittle that you could spin them in the fittings. It was no wonder that they leaked.

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Now for the hard part..... The oil tank, and oil console lines.... 8 fittings into one tank that fits inside the rear fender well in front of the right rear tire. but first clean the old tank....

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Then cross your eyes, and hold your tongue at a counterclockwise corkscrew coming out of the right side of your mouth to refit the tank... AS you fit one of the side hoses onto the tank....

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AND make connections to the thermostat housing which rests below the tank with 5 fittings and one rubber isolating spacer.

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And then you can tighten the oil console line that has about 1" of clearance for your 36mm oil line wrench to secure that fitting snuggly.

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By fpena944
#172082
@jacke2c - Love these home-grown solutions!

I know on my 996 I had a pesky leak for a while as well. My father crafted some home-built solution which wasn't the prettiest but since then not a single drop of oil has come out of the 180k mile engine.

Good to remember that the "right" way to fix something, which usually involves buying new parts at extraordinary prices, isn't the only way to get the job done!
jacke2c liked this

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